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Der Stihl 

5.13b

   

FA: Mike Pont
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13 [details]
Views: 306 page views

Submitted By: Chris Beh on Nov 15, 2001


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Description 

Der Stihl is the "trade route" 5.13 on the Bauhaus Wall and has cleaned up a lot since the first ascent in 1992. Nevertheless, the finishing headwall tends to run with water and silt every spring and thus needs a careful brushing at the start of the summer season. Be prepared!

This is the second route from the right on Bauhaus Wall and often has quickdraws on it (the rightmost route is "Der Squeal", 13a, which climbs up overhanging white rock into a roof with a poised dagger). It can also be recognized by a vertical plaque with deep pockets at the start leading to very steep white rock and a twin set of grey streaks with a pod/crack between them.

Climb up the easy vertical face and engage with the overhang. An early, bouldery crux on painfully incut underclings and tiny crimps leads to better holds. Stay left (early ascents stayed right, which is more difficult) until you hit very bulging rock beneath the capping roof. A locker kneebar here allows you to bleed it back for a final, overhanging crux.

While one climber lowered off from the jug above this crux and still claimed an "ascent," the route still has about 5-6 bolts worth of awesome, vertical 5.12 climbing on nice dark rock. Technical moves and route-finding decisions comprise this engaging, airy headwall.


Protection 

Many, many quickdraws (16-18) and a 60 meter cord (obligatory).



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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 16, 2001

I seem to remember a drilled pocket after the low crux but before the knee bar...maybe a right hand, although I will admit it has been about 5 or 6 years since I have done the route.