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Crime and Punishment 

5.12a

   

FA: Herman Gollner
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 299 page views

Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Sep 1, 2001


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Description 

This is a new route that went in last season. It climbs the face directly right of 80 feet of Meat, and takes on the overhang up above. Climb the interesting face, up to a dihedral rest. From there, go on to climb the overhang through some difficult climbing to a final toss to a jug. The route is largely clean, but it is newer than others on the wall so watch out for loose stuff. Overall, a great route that tests you at the end.


Protection 

14 bolts to lowering rings.



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By msamet
May 21, 2003

This route also has an upper pitch, and an upper set of anchors. With a 70-meter rope, you can just barely link this into in one big pitch (5.12a +, rope drag not too bad) and get back to the ground -- be sure to tie a knot, as it's a matter of inches.

Above the overhang, continue up a very narrow, acute dihedral, clipping 5 more bolts en route to the top of the cliff (you clip the anchors off a sinker mono). The dihedral is a bit crumbly, but good, and in an awesome position.

By Ken Trout
Nov 20, 2007

FA: HERMAN GOLLNER (According to the 2002 edition of Western Sloper by Dave Pegg. There is a picture of Herman on page 23 and the route description tells the story behind the route name.)

This route has its own warm-up. Begin with 5.9 past the first three or four bolts to a rest ledge. Then 5.11 up to a no-hands stem/rest under the roof. The warm-up ends with the 5.12a overhang.

By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 30, 2008

I agree the extension is in an awesome position; but aside from that, I can think of little to recommend it. Chossy rock, awkward groveling, hard to reach clips. I would do C&P again, but I would definitely skip the extension. Also, I wouldn't hang your hat on the 11b grade suggested by SplitterChoss.