This was the first route bolted on the Meat Wall and went in during the fall of 1991, when Rifle was first beginning to catch on with Boulder climbers. As you approach up the steps it's the second route to the left and can be recognized by the blue/grey/black streaked rock and hanging bulge which define the bottom half of the route.
Interestingly enough, this route has NO holds reinforced with glue. When I went back to repeat it a few years ago I tore a hold off before the first bolt and pitched 10 feet to the deck, then I ripped off a jug above the crux and went for a 30-footer. Sporadic traffic, and the fact that the bottom half of the route is now usually dry, have cleaned things up a bit.
This route is a prime example of fucked bolting, as most of the clips are placed at an arm's extension (a relic of an 80's-style sport climbing ethos). If anyone wants to move them it's ok by me. Long reaches to good holds and a pumpy headwall on surprisingly slopy pinches define the line.
This route has been rebolted by someone and they've done a pretty good job of it. Most of the bolts have been repositioned. Great route which deserves more traffic.
By David Danforth From: California/Colorado Jan 17, 2005
I just want to applaud you guys (Matt, Dave, Lee) or anyone else who was involved in the rebolting. Communication. It's nice to see people communicating with the FA party about rebolting routes. It seems so often people go in and rebolt someone's work with little care of the effort the FA party put in to begin with. That's all. -cheers-
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