Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Project Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Apocalypse '91 
Bottom Feeder 
Defensless Betty 
Fist Full of Dollars 
Gay Science, The 
Gayness, The 
Goofy Foot 
Hang 'Em High 
Hang 'Em Higher 
Living in Fear 
MC 900 FT Jesus 
Mouse Trap 
Present Tense 
Rehabilitator 
Sick Little Monkey 
Simply Read 
Sometimes Always 
Strange Ranger 
Twisted 

Living in Fear 

5.13c

   

FA: Scott Frye
Type: Sport, Chipped
Consensus: 5.13c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 715 page views

Submitted By: Chris Beh on Nov 5, 2001


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

This is the lefmost "tall" line on the Project Wall (Sick Little Monkey climbs through the blue, overhanging wall to the left) and climbs through grey-streaked rock onto a white and blue headwall with a faint dihedral near the top.

Without any discernible crux, this 90-foot route is a power-endurance nightmare and has only one spot where you can shake out both hands. The bottom used to be quite wet most of the season, but drier summers have left it consistently drier.

The "toilet-bowl" rest is better in cold temps. Scott Frye, who did the FA, used his drill to enhance a couple grips in the midsection. He always told me he wished he hadn't, but once the deed was done, there was no way to patch the holds back to what they were. Anyway, still a great route. Was rated 5.13d by Scott, Wilbur Nazarian did it quickly and downrated to 5.13c, it held there for a while.

Consensus these days is 5.13d -- but hard-as-hell 5.13d.


Protection 

10-12 quickdraws.