Defenseless Betty is another great Project Wall route. Stiff for the grade, it is all of 11d. Work up through the overhang just left of Hang 'Em High, climbing through the low roofs. Finish up the steep groove on great stone. Technical moves to the end.
There's plenty of thought provoking climbing on this route. A strenuous crux low down through the overhang is deceptively pumpy, then the crux high is very tricky. It took me several tries to riddle it out...and, afterwards, comparing notes with a "local", I don't think the sequence I used is very popular! In any case, this route was incredibly fun, probably the most enjoyable of the 11's (all good) on the wall (though, there was some talk of it being rated 12a in the new?!? book, soon to come out...). Highly recommended!
A totally great line - one of the best sport routes I've ever done at this grade. The climbing is super-continuous, steep, and very engaging. It felt like a sandbag at 11d.
For what its worth, the new Dave Pegg guide ("Western Sloper") gives this route a 12a rating.
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