This venerable classic is many people's first 13a at Rifle, despite the fact that climbers have been bickering over the 12d vs 13a grade for the last decade. Were it in Europe it would be 7c+, which is 13a, so give yourself a pat on the back if you redpoint this slippery beast.
This route is just right of Never Believe and climbs directly up the center of the blue-grey panel of water-sculpted rock in the middle of the Wasteland. It can be recognized by a high first bolt (generally stick clipped) and a series of perfect two and three finger pockets at the opening sequence. Constant traffic on this route has turned the footholds black -- almost to the point that you feel like you're smearing on marble. Nevertheless, the climbing on this line is great -- sustained, powerful and aesthetic.
A genuine 13a advent, "The Beast with Two Backs," continues past the anchors out the big roof via long moves to good holds. Bring four or five more draws for this, and maybe a toothbrush, as it sees little traffic.
This thing is sick ! Fav route at Rifle so far. Solid 13a as well. Get on it. Quick link at the second crux (5th bolt) should be replaced soon! I'll get in on the next trip back if not done yet. Cheers.
Leave the anchor as is. The Beast has existed for far too long as a route that ends at the roof to change things now.
By tcamillieri From: Denver Dec 12, 2008 rating: 5.13a
If the first anchors ever come out, the top anchors should be moved. If you clip bolts above the lip, your rope burns severely on the lip. When I first got up there, there were no draws on the bolts, there are draws on there now, but beware. Two or three burns clipping the anchor I can almost gurantee will ruin your rope.
Now that I'm laid up with a broken foot and scratching memories from not-too-distant glory days for adrenal sustenance at this time, I have three (pointless) things to say about this route. 1. I have sent The Beast five times, two of which en route to sending the roof after the first anchors. 2. The Beast is very much a 13a (at the time, I was warming up on In Your Face, considered by many a hard, six-bolt 12d, and doing the Beast as a second or third pitch). And 3. you really are missing an amazing finish if you clip the first anchors and call it good, having earned your imagined 13a points instead of a killer experience. But I don't care what you do. I'm just bored, taking the time to tell whoever might wonder that it's worth going for the extra credit on this one. Oh, and I never had any problem with the rope running over the lip.
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