BETA PHOTO: The "moderates" at the Nappy Dugout. Ivory Tower ...
Description
The shady cave of The Nappy Dugout can be a welcome respite from the heat in the rest of the canyon, and it seldom sees any sun at all. This steep area is host to about a dozen routes most being very steep. Difficulty runs the gamut from 5.10c to the Rifle test piece, Lung Fish, at 5.14a. Overall rock quality is quite good and most routes can be done with a 50 meter cord. Route numbering begins from the left with Family Unit as # 1. This route just catches the left edge of the cave.
Getting There
The Nappy Dugout has easy access. Park as for the Wasteland. Walk into the Wasteland and pick your way right to the end of the wall. About 100 ft right, and via a trail, is the cave of The Nappy Dugout. A few routes can also be found right of the cave itself and out in the sun.
On the left side of the Nappy Dugout is Fossil Family. It's recognized by its first three bolts (homemade and shared with Family Unit) and by the right-trending and upward (of course) discontinuous seam that comprises its upper half. Climb up to the third bolt, then move up and right along the seam for three more clips, passing a rooflet near the sixth bolt, to a two bolt anchor. STELLAR, power-sapping climbing on good holds adds up to a super-...[more]
Congratulations to whoever got away with naming this "The Nappy Dugout." That's been a hiphop term for female genitilia for a long time. It began in the 1973 Funkadelic track "Nappy Dugout." Later incarnations have included Ice Cube's "Givin Up the Nappy Dug Out." The term is used in the Warren Beatty film Bulworth.
The Nappy Dugout
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