This is where it all began. Contrary to guidebook information, the Wasteland's classic Never Believe (12d) was the first sport route in Rifle. The routes here are short for Rifle, generally ending after 50-80 feet. They more than make up for their lack of length, however, with the beauty of the blue-grey stone and the sustained, powerful nature of the climbing. Many of the older routes, especially in the middle of the cave, have become hyper-polished, so don't feel discouraged if a given route (The Beast for example) feels harder than the grade.
Getting There
Drive into the Canyon, passing the obvious cave of the Arsenal on the left. Park just past the Arsenal; you'll cross a bridge and turn into a large parking area on the left. Landmarks include an in-situ trash dumspter and a port-a-potty, as well as a sign on the left for the Koper Ice Cave Trail.
This parking area is about a mile and a half from the entrance to the canyon, where the road turns to dirt. Cross the road and take the narrow trail through the thick brush to the base of the crag.
This was Rifle's first sport route for a reason -- it follows a compelling line on a brilliant wall and starts on a streaked limestone pillar reminscent of the finest stone in Europe.It is the 8th route from the left in the Wasteland, sitting just between Vision Thing to the left and The Beast to the right. Think of it as the leftmost route on the grey, central section of the wall.Start on the pillar and climb up to a bolt high and right. Bust to...[more]
The Wasteland
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