Mitten Slab 

FA:  New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.10b [details] Length:  5 pitches, 450 feet Season:  fall winter or early spring Views: 459 page views Submitted By: dannys on Jul 7, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

P.1: (5.4) This route is (presently) the only climb on this wall, so the start should be obvious. Climb an easy slab straight up past several bolts for about 70' to a 2 bolt anchor.

P.2: (5.10b) Climb easy but soft and hollow rock up to the roof and the first bolt of this pitch. Pull out the roof on much better rock (9) and angle right on a nice, varnished slab to another steep bulge. Pull this bulge on small holds and climb up to a nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 60', 7 bolts, slings handy.

P.3: (5.8) Climb right off belay to a bolt and then up on easy ground to another bolt. Pass this bolt and a short crux to a crack and follow to another nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 70' 2 bolts, a #0.75 BD Cam will protect the crack, but it is not necessary.

P.4: (5.9-) Head left off belay to a bolt. Extend this clip and climb up and right to a varnished slab. Edge up this past 3 bolts to a horizontal break and bust left for about 10' to 15'. Clip a bolt and head up and right again to another nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 80', 6 bolts.

P.5: (5.8) Climb up and left in a gully to a bolt. Climb past more bolts on the excellent face passing up a 2 bolt rap station along the way to the top of the "thumb" where you will find a 4 bolt anchor in some soft rock. 180', 9 or 10 bolts.

Location 

Rap the route. It is possible with a single 60m, but be aware of rope snagging flakes.

Protection 

10 draws, 8 or 10 slings for anchors and wandering pitches and some spare biners and lockers is all you will need for the climb.