Great location above the Piedra River. So far, only a handful of routes. 1 nice steep lieback crack (5.10), 2 (5.10-11) face sport climbs, 5.9 corner system, and bolted arete (5.10).
Approach these climbs like sea cliff climbing. You rap in and climb out never touching the canyon floor which avoids the choss band at the base of this cliff. The raps are about 100ft to anchors on the face. Remember- if you think you might not be able to lead your way out, you might want to leave a fixed jug line!
Route development here has been compliments of Jason Lombard. Buy him a beer at Kips to thank him. I have not climbed these routes and only include this info to help folks sort out the different crags around the Piedra.
Getting There
Park at the big turn in Piedra Rd as it crests the hill and you can first see the canyon (~15 miles from town). This is known as "Sally's Corner". Walk to the edge and look for rap anchors.