Start out at the parking lot at Engineer Pass and US Hwy 550. Slog up the scree field to gain the prominent left arete. The easier climbing has loose rock, but the steeper sections are great climbing. In general, this is a great route with less loose rock than Lightline and good pro.
Location
See topo. Descent: follow the aspen glade to the west and across the creek bed. Continue along the contour toward the south where you will find an opening with a few sparse trees. Walk straight down to the cliff edge looking for the tip tip of the rappel tree. 4th class down to the tree with rap tat and rap to the north (towards Blue Condition). One 60m rope will get you to the 1st set of bolt anchors that are hard (climber's) left [presently one bolt with chain and an open cold shut]. From here, with use two rope for a 50 m rap, or use a single 60 to get to the next 2 bolt rap station that is slightly to the right with a good ledge and is well protected from rock fall, then rap to the floor. Cruise down the gully. The last steep section offers a single miner's bar rap just below an old mine on skier's right.
Protection
A good "nugget" is to take some tricams in the San Juans. No RPs or small gear is needed, but bring the standard rack of cams.
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