This is the bolted line that starts above The Wisdom Traverse. There are currently (Q1 2007) chain draws hanging from the bolts in the roof section. To start, either run it out to the first, coldshut hanger or place gear for the first few easy moves. Straightforward, moderate climbing gets you to the roof transition where you have to deal with a crack and difficult clip at the first chain draw (first bolt in roof). A large cam can be placed here which is a good idea if you are a lousy crack climber. Now, you get to pull on to the roof, clip the next hanging draw and deal with a difficult boulder problem. This leads to a leftward traverse that is juggy and fun. Clip the last bolt and climb great rock up to the anchors. The moves past the last bolt are not hard but if you blow it, you will be taking a safe but BIG fall!
Protection
Mostly bolted with fixed gear on many bolts and anchors. Optional gear before first bolt and under roof.
I have been told this is 13b. I have no argument with the grade; however, this is not an endurance route. You can break this down to 10 up to the roof, V8 with clips transitioning to the first jugs on the traverse and 11+ from here up and to the anchors.
By freddy k From: Denver, CO Apr 9, 2008 rating: 5.13a/b
Seems like a pumpy V6 from the crack to the jugs. Awesome route with some decent exposure. Seems like 13- in its entirety.
By freddy k From: Denver, CO Jun 1, 2008 rating: 5.13a/b
I suppose that my earlier comment was a little off, apres failing to redpoint this thing quickly. The crux, transitioning from the crack to the roof is really hard, perhaps enough so to warrant 13b? Aside from this move, getting to the chains is 12c.
I'm going to replace the first draw in the roof with an extended one with a thicker dog bone... If this draw belongs to you just shoot me an email at dvsbenz@gmail.com describing it and ill be more than happy to return it
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