Dan Morta attempting cytogrinder only to fall off ...
Description
Cytogrinder tackles the middle of the Black Hole, diverging just right of Center Route. Begin matched in the large hole at the bottom. Move up into a chipped (?), grinding two finger pocket, and up to a right sloper. Move up and right to one more sloper and pop to the top rail. Breashears' Crack to the right is off for your feet, otherwise it's one of the few open lines at Morrison.
The great thing about this problem is the intricate variety of beta one can find (and needs) to succeed. I count some 19 hand or foot movements the way I do it. Save some gusto for the last move to the lip, which tends to shut people down. Be aware of guys in their 50's and 60's who seemingly use the hardest beta possible and yet warm up on this problem. I'd give it three, but it probably only deserves two.
Protection
Just watch the rock on the ground you might hit if you pop off of the last, hardest move. Otherwise no problem.
From what I have heard the undercling pocket actually fell out once, that whole block ripped out. Someone glued it back in place (now theres that damn little nub of epoxy that eats the side of your finger everytime you use the hold)thus making it look chipped but in actuallity it is not.
I don't know about the glued rock thing but sometime around 97' the undercling pocket was enlarged slightly. I was working the route at the time and knew the hold very well, came back a couple days later and it was bigger, other locals agreed.
A brutal start to this envolves what I have always referred to as "the Rufus Method". Start at the same hold; however, move the right hand into the small little hole at the right (east) end of the long horizontal slot. Use the last digit on your ring finger to do a heinous gaston/smear in the hole, then move the left up to the undercling/pinch hold, pop the right up to the big(ger) slopers and finish. The slot hold is the same hold that is used for McTwist, and Stomach Pump (the latter using the left forefinger, or ring). Someone should go up there and send this one...I may venture that this may be closer to the V10 range, but I wouldn't know as I have not been able to do the first moves. (See above comment regarding people in the '50s and '60s...very funny I thought!) Peace, Young Doug.
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