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Morrison Boulders
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5.8 Boulder 
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Tree Slab 

Morrison Boulders

Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Nov 30, 1999
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Elevation: 5,800 feet
Views: 73,842 page views

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More bouldering at Morrison Wall north-end.


Description 

Morrison is a classic Front Range bouldering area. It's likely best known for the problems in The Lobby and Black Hole, on the cliffside north of town. Here one will find a hardman's delight, offering a number of classic problems, linkups, and eliminations at V5 and above. Most problems tackle greasy slopers with a few wicked crimps interspersed. North Morrison receives high traffic, which is good and bad. The area is dirty and polished. However, here one can receive a gym like workout, on real rock, in an encouraging atmosphere. Everyone knows your name, or at least the beta. I know there is alternative, quality bouldering around Morrison that climbs actual boulders. Having never climbed them, I'll depend on others to add this to the site.


Getting There 

Easy. From Boulder, take CO 93 to Golden, US Highway 6 to C-470 heading South, and get off 5-10 minutes later at Morrison. Take a right after exiting. One can also take a right just past Golden on Heritage Rd, which becomes a highway that goes by Red Rocks and spits you out into Morrison on the west side. From Denver, take US 285 to C-470, then head north the the Morrison exit, and take a left into town.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Morrison Boulders:
Center or Regular Problem aka Fire and Ice Simulator   V0     Boulder   Tree Slab
Breashears' Crack   V1     Boulder   The Black Hole
Bearded Lady   V1     Boulder, 10 feet   The Dark Side
Souja Boy Traverse   V2-3     Boulder   The Dark Side
High Gravity   V3     Boulder, 10 feet   The Dark Side
Upper Wisdom   V3     Boulder, 25 feet   The Black Hole
Breashear's Crack II   V3     Boulder, 19 feet   The Dark Side
Helicopter   V5     Boulder   The Black Hole
Missile   V5     Boulder   The Black Hole
Air Jordan   V5     Boulder   The Black Hole
Tendonitis Traverse   V5     Boulder   The Black Hole
Squirming Coil   V5     Boulder, 15 feet   The Dark Side
Dasani   V5-6     Boulder, 10 feet   The Dark Side
Revlon   V6     Boulder   The Black Hole
Double Arete   V6     Boulder, 16 feet   The Dark Side
Full Wisdom aka Wisdom Simulator   V7     Boulder   The Black Hole
Air Loopis   V8     Boulder   The Black Hole
Cytogrinder   V8     Boulder   The Black Hole
Rupture - V5-V7   V? R     Boulder, 10 feet   The Dark Side
The Nautilus Cave Pitch   5.10     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Nautilus
Browse More Classics in Morrison Boulders

Featured Route For Morrison Boulders
toblerone

Breashear's Crack II V3  CO : Morrison/Evergreen : ... : The Dark Side
Located on the "square block" about halfway up the hill. The block can be seen from the Black Hole directly above a large pine tree on the middle of the hillside. This problem is rad. Crux is first 8-10 ft. Real thin laybacks and jams. The upper half of the problem is easier but pretty highball. Unless you regularly onsight .11+ finger cracks, I'd recommend a pad. This is the crack up the center of the northwest face of the square block. There a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Morrison Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Olaf Mitchell and Noel Childs bouldering at the Morrison Wall, circa 1986, photo: Bob Horan.

Olaf Mitchell and Noel Childs bouldering at the Mo...

Morrison bouldering master Rufus Miller traverse training in the Black Hole, Morrison Wall, photo: Bob Horan.

Morrison bouldering master Rufus Miller traverse t...

Location of climbing routes and anchors.

BETA PHOTO: Location of climbing routes and anchors.

Location of Morrison Boulders.

BETA PHOTO: Location of Morrison Boulders.

Luke Childers climbing on "Air Jordan."  Morrison, Co.

Luke Childers climbing on "Air Jordan." Morrison,...

Trevor projectin' at the Nosebleed Section.

Trevor projectin' at the Nosebleed Section.


Comments on Morrison Boulders Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 15, 2009
By Quinn Stevens
Dec 17, 2002

The people I climb with and have met at Morrison recognize the area for what it is - a dirty grotto that gives you a chance to have a solid workout on real rock. For myself it's not too much different than a gym, but at least it's outside. Futher, you can climb comfortably at Morrison when it's practicly snowing. While many problems are contrived, last time I checked they have been recognized as such on this site. It's not like you dip shits are offering any new information.

I understand the idea that the locals take the climbing too seriously. But I hope anyone who says that has never spent too much time climbing in a gym - the point being, everyone takes their silly climbing interests too seriously. Morrison is what it is. Some enjoy it and obviously others don't. Little pricks who have problems with that don't impress anybody except themselves.

By Matthew Brejcha
Jan 14, 2003

Stick it to them Quinn, Morrison is agreat place to hang out and have a good time. It has some great problems if you have the beta, maybe I like it so much because it's 3 minutes from my house but that is beside the point. If you know what your looking for and like to climb with some cool, friendly folks Morrison is the place to be, if not don't complain about how you don't like it and just go somewhere else.

By Schmidty
Apr 4, 2003

Quinn and Nate, You guys are right on. Morrison is an outdoor gym with a high level of hard problems in a concentrated area, that's what makes it great. Schmidty

By Joel Gillmore
Apr 30, 2003

My buddy wayne romanchuck downclimbed this line, pretty cool!

By Mike Lane
From: Centennial, CO
Jan 13, 2004

What the hell! The comment up top attributed to me is not mine. I just happened to stumble upon this, appearantly anyone can scroll down and use someone else's name. For the record I bouldered there consistantly through the first half of the 90's. Before gyms this was a great place to develop contact strength; and there are many classic- albeit ancient- problems every local climber should be familiar with. As to the a-hole who used my name for that pompous statement up top, grow some hair on your balls and move out of your mom's basement.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 25, 2005

I've been learning to climb at an indoor gym and would like to move things outside and try out some natural challenges. I live close to Morrison so can find it easy enough, but WHERE in Morrison exactly is it? I'm looking to do some easy boldering.

Thanks for any help.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 4, 2005

Morrison vandalized. Cleanup scheduled for 3/5/05.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=82969>>>>>

http://www.boards2go.com/boards/board.cgi?user=mbrooks

By Alan Klein
Jul 12, 2005

If coming from [Denver], take [Morrison] exit off of [C470]. take first right past the foothills. park in the first lot at the base of the foothills, climb up the hill, and find any area you want all along the whole backside of the foothill. I've done quite a few leads up random places that look like a nice challenge. there's not too many bolts anywhere...which is fine you just have to find your own way up. numerous possibilities, although any climbs are likely to be only at a low 5.8 5.9 level. sure if you want there's plenty of places to set up a top rope. it's a nice climbing area. good rock (granite?) not one of the most prime spots though. a lot more bouldering than anything.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 13, 2005

Alan, Morrison is Dakota Sandstone, not granite. You have to go a little further west for that.

By Olaf Mitchell
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Mar 22, 2007

For many years we had this place all to ourselves. When it was cold and snowy, the gang from Bolder came down. We put up most of the obvious stuff and had a real good time. It was our club! It's where we trained and met our adventurer partners. It was a great scene, and I hope that it still is.

By PbPaul
From: Denver, CO
Apr 28, 2008

I was looking around for the hill that leads up forever. When the four of us parked at the parking lot, just outside of the small town of Morrison, a block away from The Morrison Inn, we looked around for a trail.

We seen a very small trail to the left, and followed that until we ran into a little excavation site, went back, then tried going straight up. We stopped because we figured that there would be an obvious trail. Where is the trail up this hill, or were we at the wrong spot to go bouldering? Would anyone give detailed directions from this parking lot, please.

We ended up going all the way to Red Rocks, crossing over and doing that trail, looking for some rock to boulder... But there wasn't anything decent, especially something with a safe fall.

By Andy Librande
From: Denver, CO
Apr 30, 2008

PbPaul: I believe you were asking where the main area to boulder at Morrison is; it is very straightforward and it sounds like you just missed it. Here is a map showing parking spots and where the two boulder areas are:

Google Map Link

By doug rouse
Jul 1, 2008

Best bet is to hook up with a local. There are hundreds of problems here, and many are very good quality. I have seen many people come and go, and miss several "used to be" locals. Anyway, I could not help but have a laugh regarding the above climbers inability to find " the bouldering ". Hope you have found them, and may your forearms last a good long time>

By jmeizis
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 15, 2009

Left a nice new guidebook there today. It's either soaked in rain or somebody grabbed it already, but since I live in Colorado Springs I guess it's my donation to somebody. Maybe I shouldn't have tried to pick up trash because I only ended up leaving some of my own.