The best line at The Energy Wall. Steep, powerful, technical, dynamic and beautiful. It's also quite tall. Climb the orange-colored wall right of a pronounced crack located next to a pine tree. S.D.S. with your hands in a nice in-cut jug. Make sure your hands are placed in the correct order before starting out or you are sure to have victory stolen from you. When ready, aggressively bump up to a small, right hand crimp with a pinky catch then quickly make a long toss (again with your right hand) to a small, sloping, horizontal seam. Move your left foot on to a nice tip-like foot hold located on your starting hold. Next bring up your left had up into a match and quickly switch feet. Get your left foot in a good back step position and toss up and left into a two finger, pocket-type feature. Steady yourself for the grand finally and explode upwards (2-3 ft dyno) with your right hand to snag an in-cut jug. Now that the hard part is over get a shake and finish by pushing on to easier but committing climbing to the finish. Possibly the best problem at the Sister's. If the sequence is not done in a fairly precise way it will surely seem much harder. Also a big key to sending this sweet hart is good momentum. This problem is also much harder if you are short. The taller you are the easier this one will probably feel.
Location
Location is The Energy Wall. Steep, orange-colored wall left of a pronounced crack and pine tree.
I am not sure but I believe I got the 2nd or 3rd ascent of this line in 2000. I felt that it was more like (V8) at the time. I still feel that it compares to the Flatirons, Satellite classic " Face Full of Brian (V8)." (V6) seems quite stiff for this one!!! I could go with hard (V7). Really it's difficulty is very height dependent!! Great problem for sure.
Did this one again about a week or two ago and even knowing all the moves it still took me all day with many tries!!! It was hard back in 1999-2000 and it's still hard in 2009!!! So, I have officially changed my rating to V8. Call me crazy, but I think it's that hard. Either way it's one of the best line at the Sisters!!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
