Full Wisdom is a classic endurance testpiece at Morrison. The problem starts under at the far right of the Black Hole, (under the leaning rock) and it traverses up the rock on the overhanging traverse above the Black Hole. Begin on a big hold and move up on easy rock (jugs) until you will find the obvious crux.... A wicked section with a pissy little crimper that will work you. Crank through this section and finish what is known as Upper Wisdom. If you wish, you can start above this crimper crux for the V3 version Upper Wisdom. Classic problem and a good challenge.
Protection
A bouldering pad is nice....
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Great for endurance, try climbing it then down climbing it, really fun stuff.
By chris deulen From: Duluth, MN May 24, 2006 rating: V8
Not a bad idea to have 2 pads in both cruxes, and a person to spot at both locations as well. The lower crux is crimpy and technical, with possible knee scumming, toe hooking, etc. Watch the dab!
By jables From: Lakewood, CO Aug 10, 2008 rating: V7
One of the best routes here. Get this one wired and run laps to get really strong....
See..now this is what I like to read! Some very funny stuff here! " pissy little crimper that will work you"..Hilarious!.."run laps to get really strong" yep, I would certainly think so!
The Black Hole
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