AKA, BICEPS; Biceps is a convoluted route, like all Lobby routes, but is a good one for showing off if you can get it wired. Start as for Nork, and move up with the Left hand to the high crimper. Then cross through right to the good crimper in the V-slot. Now, drop down with the left onto the chalked sloper-gaston. Suck it up, and cross through with the right hand to a small incut crimper that is in the middle of the rock. (that was the crux). Reach out left and find a small/sharp two finger pocket hidden on the left side of the enormous jug. Try not to think about the fact that you can't use this sweet jug and still call it V6. Pull hard and straight up with the right hand to a sharp crimper under the roof. Bring the left up to another similar crimper. Take a big breath, and toss out left for the arete. Hit it on the arete and then keep bumping the hand up until you find a good flat edge. Then match hands and you are done. The final moves are not hard, but do get exciting after the pumpy starting moves.
Protection
Pad and spotter nice
Add CommentComments on Some Biceps Are Bigger Than Others
I am commenting because I can...I think this is a Dale Goddard problem..A similar prob. titled " Vulgar Display of Power (V9) " by Stevie..goes to the small crimp gaston above the sloper gaston. right hand to small crimp edge near the "Nork hold", left out to the small pocket on the west end of the huge bucket, then right hand all the way up the the small crimp below the arete. Thanks for playing..Young Doug.
The Lobby
RSS Feed
