BETA PHOTO: Deer Creek Crag seen from the road: Horseshoes and...
Description
This is a burly little roadside crag just up from Deer Creek Canyon (Jeffco Open Space, sw of Denver). There are three sets of chain anchors allowing you to toprope all climbs and variations, but the far right climb is bolted as well, and other climbs could be lead traditionally. Rock quality is sketchy in places, however, especially on the left side. The walk up to the anchors is to the left. The crag is 35/40 feet tall at the most. The rock is gneiss, I think, not unlike what you'll find in Clear Creek.
The climbing is rigorous and challenging--11s and 12s. There's some bouldering to be had as well. This is basically a local after-work crag, not necessarily worth the drive if you're closer to Clear Creek or Boulder, but certainly fun if you're in the area or want to sample something new.
All three main climbs are good and worth a go, and there is definitely room for improvised variations.
Getting There
From west Denver: Take C-470 south past the Morrison and 285 exits to the Ken Caryl exit. Take a right at the light and drive through the hogback (you'll see signs for Ken Caryl Valley). Stay left through the next light (the road is now called South Valley Rd.) and head through the third light as well. Drive on till you come to a T (there are some nice sandstone formations on your left, but climbing is off-limits), take a left here, then a right at the second T. You're now on the Deer Creek Canyon road heading into the mountains.
or, from Highlands Ranch and places to the south: Take C-470 west/north to the Wadsworth exit. Turn left/south as if going to Chatfield Reservoir, then first right after going under C-40. This road becomes Deer Creek Canyon Rd: take three miles west...
Once on Deer Creek Canyon Rd., pass the brown signs for Deer Creek Canyon (the open space park); stay on the main (windy) road for another two miles. The overhanging crag is right there on the road side on your right with a pullout in front of it. If you get to a strange little place called Phillipsburg you've just passed it.
If you have bothered to drive all the way up the winding canyon and battle past the bikers riding the white line, then CLIMB THIS ROUTE!!! Starts the same as The Pump and The Pendulum, but after you clip the second bolt, start heading left into the small cutout and good underclinging jugs. Head straight up for a tricky crux that might leave your pinkie screaming to gain a jug rest. Then, fun climbing, including a deadpoint off two crimps (redp...[more]
There is some colorful but little known history in Deer Creek Canyon. Alfred Packer spent his final years mining and ranching in the area.
Please be mindful of the 100-year old petroglyphs on the bottom right side of the crag. This place is known as Camp Rock in historical records and was a popular resting place for travelers on the Deer Creek wagon road.
On a completely different note, an ice climb or two occasionally form downstream of Phillipsburg. I've never caught them in shape but my Dad got in a couple good days around 1980.
I just climbed it a week ago for the first time, and everything is still good. I had to use a couple cams part way up cuzz I was diein, but all in all I loved it.
I have bolted a open project on the right side of the wall, it climbs diagonally to the left trending toward the exsisting 12. The route is actually pretty sweet and very, very, very hard. When I bolted it, I was thinking easy 5.13, but I'm thinking now after doing the moves that it's much harder maybe 14a?
As a side note, I spoke with some local home owners and they don't have a problem with us climbing there, just be cool, clean up after yourself and keep it low key. Also, someone stole my draws of the warm up so..... Don't leave your draws on any climbs here. I guess it was a dumb move in the first place to leave my draws there.
Does the route with the fixed draws have a name? And has anyone climbed the route that goes up and right off of Highway Man?
Jables I would suggest epoxying the quick links shut if you don't want them stolen. It's one of the few things I've seen work. Just make sure if you use chains to paint them.
Deer Creek Crag
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