Go for the onsight... but if you want a description, here goes: Bouldery start, height dependent. If you're not 6'3", it'll be harder to reach the out-of-sight jug. Then a short slab to the overhanging dihedral/handcrack. Rest here, then angle back in to the right, find a way through the crux, and up and over. Another short section awaits here before you reach the anchors. The climb is dirty in places. You could lead this trad if you want, though I don't trust the rock at this crag even 85%... feels like some of the cracks expand a tad.
Variation: from the rest, stay left and creep up underneath the roof, than traverse right. This way is easier and not 11c. Not sure about my ratings, anyway, so you're welcome to put in your two cents about how they feel to you.
P.S.: if you're flailing at the start, take the slabby alternative to its right
Fun route, but be careful. Some of the rock on this route doesn't seem too secure.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado May 30, 2007
The plate wedged near the top of the hand crack moves, but it isn't coming out anytime soon. The burly part is towards the top. Some fun moves on this one.
By jables From: Lakewood, CO May 31, 2008 rating: 5.11a/b
Very fun route. Not that hard, lead it trad, there's good protection in those crack systems.
I climbed this one again last night. I really enjoy this route. It doesn't feel as hard as 11c in my opinion. I'm a little concerned about the flake that Tobias shows in the first picture of Dave climbing it. The rock under the flake is rotten and the flake is hollow. The rock on the right of the flake is deteriorating and looks like it would be the first to break. It's probably not going anywhere but it bugged my last night. Anyway, keep an eye on the trajectory path should it fall. Use caution.
Deer Creek Crag
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