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BETA PHOTO: Final pitch cracks.
This is a fabulous route. I can't say enough good about it. After you have crossed the creek and struggled up through the woods and a talus slope, find the lowest point on the crag. It should be pretty obvious. At the top left corner of the talus slope is where you find it.
Pitch 1 - 5.6. Scramble up over broken terrain, aiming for a left facing dihedral and climb it to a small ledge at the base of a roof.
Pitch 2 - 5.7. Pull around the roof to the left and continue up a left facing dihedral. Belay at another ledge and roof in the dihedral system.
Pitch 3 - 5.6. Scramble to the left over easier terrain to reach the base of the final headwall.
Pitch 4 - 5.7. This is the icing on the cake! See the nice pretty crack going up the steep headwall? Well, get on it. A couple of stretched-out stemming and jamming moves lead to bomber jugs and the top.
Scramble west or climber's right working laterally and down, but not too soon. You can descend to either side of the rock buttress in front of you. To the right involves some down climbing, but is shorter. You should locate a fairly obvious path once you scramble down to the trees. It hugs fairly tight to the cliff as it winds its way back to the base of the cliff.
See "Colorado Front Range Crags" by Peter Hubbel as a reference. It is out of print.
A standard rack is used for this route. Nothing special is needed.
Phil Pickett heading up the first pitch.
Rich Sidoroff heading up the second pitch.
Sean Wood just past the crux of the route.
Phil Pickett finishing up the route with Highway 2...
Chris Cavallaro starting the first pitch.
Good view of the crux move. 20 feet of finger cra...
Shannon Miller cleaning up pitch 1.
A nice view from the top of Lover's.
Scott leading the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Lover's Leap on the right. Green arrows show a ra...
Bruce Hildenbrand stemmed out at the crux of the l...
On the last pitch.
At the crux. One move.
Lover's Leap free solo.
At the crux.
BETA PHOTO: These guys are on the pitch right below the crux. ...
|By Darrin Stein|
From: Milwaukee, WI
Jan 12, 2002
There is a rap route for those who don't like to down climb. Last I had seen, the first station was not bolted. I always found a nice, sharp piece of rock and doubled it over. rapped down about 60' to a two bolt station, then finished not to far off from where the trail meets the base of this crag. The rappel is pretty much down the Winter Route, in the book that Julian mentioned.
|By Shane Zentner|
Mar 14, 2002
I climbed Lover's Leap last October but I'm not sure which route we did. I led the first pitch to a belay stance with two old bolts and a piece of green webbing. The second pitch went left by following a crack, then straight up following easier terrain to the next belay with webbing(?). The third pitch also followed easier terrain to a decent sized ledge. I led the fourth and last pitch to the summit by climbing across a slab and up to the right of a roof near an ancient bolt with a rusty chain that I clipped for the fun of it. We scrambled down (climber's right) to the bottom and relocated the trail. This is a good place to climb that is close to Denver on US Highway 285 heading south. I used a variety of small to medium cams and stoppers. One will see pieces of old webbing and an occasional bolt along the way. I would highly recommend placing your own gear and not using these ancient pieces of pro...Shane.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 20, 2002
I think you were on a different route, Shane. This route starts at about the nadir of the rock (otherwise, it is difficult to identify from close up). Now there is a multi-bolt sport pitch, currently lists as Unknown, 5.9+, just to its left. I recall seeing some manky-looking bolts & green sling to the left of the start.
Oh yeah. This can easily be done in 3 pitches.
|By Shane Zentner|
Mar 28, 2002
I was definitely on a different route. We did see that bolted route to our right, but decided not to take it. We basically followed old webbing, chossy rock, an occasional crack, and easy slab to the top. The crux was at the start of the second pitch directly to the left of the green webbing (maybe 5.8, 5.7?). One could also follow a nice crack with a piton that is also located left and down of the green webbing. Tried to do that climb again in December, but was a bit too cold...Shane
|By Jason Carter|
From: Monument, CO
Apr 20, 2002
DESCENT - I find it much easier and faster to walk off the top to the east; it's just a quick jaunt down slabs - to the west I found the rap route to be manky and the downclimb fuzzy with moss.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 31, 2002
If you climb during a high traffic time (rush hours), a system of rope pulls for communication can make your life a whole lot easier, as well as saving some wear and tear on the vocal cords.
|By Scott Thompson|
Aug 27, 2002
This is a fun route, altough the climbing itself is definitely not three star quality, it's a fun summit climb, and has a bit of an adventure feel. The line we followed is very obvious from the talus slope: it is the most obvious crack system which follows a plum line from the nadir of the face up to just shy of the rightmost part of the obvious notch; take a second and check it out from the talus.
We began in the most obvious (largest) LF dihedral (directly below notch in pic). Turning "roofs" on the right and following the corner system. It isn't always completely obvious where to go, but I never went left, always right. Following this line, this climb could easily be done in two pitches, we nearly did, but I ended up belaying right below the final crack because i had used my .75 Camalot already (looked perfect for the crux, and was). This Eldo-esque crack is the only 5.7 move(s) on the entire climb...it's great! We walked off to the east down the slabs and such, took a while longer than the other descents, but is kinda pretty and never really hard to find your way. The rap anchor we saw from the climb definitely looked manky, ie. ratty slings, American Death Triangle, and probable quarter inchers.
|By Sean Calocci|
Sep 9, 2002
Climbed this route on 9/05/02. Quite enjoyable, nice views, and we didn't see another soul all day. For the approach: after parking in the nearest pull-out on the south side of 285, head east from the lot about 200ft (between the river-bed and guard-rail) until you come down into the dry river-bed. Go directly across to a path where someone has been nice enough to place a fixed line with knots to assist in climbing the southern bank (very useful when coming back). There are other trails up this bank but they are all very steep and loose. Follow the trail to the talus and go up the talus to the base of the climb (just right of an obvious bolted line). The climb takes pro very well, and the first two pitches offer some decent climbing on moderate terrain. The last pitch is short, but very aesthetic, and offers one challenging move. We placed a set of new slings and screw-locks up and to the left of this finish (they will probably be pirated before long, but hopefully not, because the rappel stations on the face below are well-bolted and this is by far the easiest way off the climb). This descent requires two-ropes for all three raps and goes down the face to the left of the climb (from the slings to a three-bolt station, to another three bolt station, to the ground). The best description of this climb is in the new book "Serious Play" by Steve Dieckhoff.
|By Legs Magillicutty|
Oct 7, 2002
Another thing to mention about this climb is that it stays in the shade. We did it yesterday, 10/6/02 and I could see my breath and couldn't feel my fingers. Great exposure, especially through the crux on P5! Gotta admit that the crux was a bit intimidating. Once I stemmed out far enough, the holds were all there, just a matter of reaching them. A fun, easy route!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 21, 2003
Neat climb so close to the city.Radios would be nice. I thought the protection on the first 100 ft. was a little sparse. I bet you could do the whole climb in two long pitches. There is a new set of bolts on the ledge below the final 5.7 headwall crack, just above a small alcove. And as mentioned there's a set of new bolts and rap rings at the top (just left of the crack).
|By Bryson Slothower|
Jul 26, 2003
A fun variation is to start with the bolted line just left of the start of this route ( 9+) to it's bolted belay. Cut right back to Lover's Leap for p.2, follow it to the next good ledge. Cut back left on an obvious ramp and climb an awesome face about 20' left of the cracks on L.L. it's about 9+ using small TCUs and a piton to a bolt belay. Last pitch heads straight up around a small roof and through a fun face to the summit and could be combined with the 3rd pitch. This puts you to the left of the fixed rap anchor and adds a lil' spice....
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 13, 2003
Sounds like there's a newly installed rap route? Anyone know how it goes? Thanks!
|By Scott Duke|
Aug 18, 2003
Great first lead (at least the first two pitches are) for someone getting into trad climbing. However, bring plenty of slings as there can be pretty severe rope drag. Also, bring two-way radios since the hi-way noise can get loud. The entire climb can be done with 2 #1 and 2 #2 cams and one full set of stoppers. There are new belay bolts in all three pitches. Bring two ropes for a two pitch rap or one 60 meter rope for a three pitch rap. Wear a helmet for the rockfall from above.
|By Jason williams|
From: Parker, Colorado
Sep 6, 2003
This is probably one of the closest crags from town. Overall, it was a really good route. Solid holds except for some weeds in some of the cracks which is probably explained by the lack of traffic. Locating the start of the trail that takes you up and through the forest to the base of the cliff started to get snafu'd, so after 10 minutes of looking for it we just started hiking up the thing. Hike the boulderfield if you don't locate the trail, it's much easier, since it's pretty steep loose dirt. The route can be done in two pitches, but we did it in 3. The 3rd pitch crux requires stemming up a perfect hand crack to the summit. You'll see bolts to the climbers left on each pitch which is the 5.9 route. If no one's on it, you can rap this, but it seemed to me you'd need two ropes. I don't think one will cut it. Or just walk off, we went east, stay close to the cliff and it'll drop you right back at the base; however, west is probably the better way to go. Enjoy.
|By Chad Stebbins|
Sep 8, 2003
I'm not sure why you would break this climb into 5 pitches. I'll echo what has been previously stated, I think 2, possibly 3 if you want to belay before the crux, is best. To me, the route seemed to be a lot of 5.5 climbing with a short 5.8 crux. I wish the final crack extended the entire climb, because it's great, it really makes the entire climb.
To descend, we did a double rope rappel off the new fixe ring anchors, just to the left of the finish, to the set of bolts that are the belay for the first (or second???) pitch. One gray and one red hanger. From here we traversed climbers right to the obvious rap anchor with blue webbing in the blocky gully. A final short rap gets you to the ground.
At risk of starting controversy, the bolted belays (without rings or quick links to rap off of) seemed pointless. There are plenty of options to place gear anchors. I by no means suggest they should be removed, just making an observation. Next time I'm in the area I will add quick links to the midway bolts so they at least serve a purpose as a rap station.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 4, 2004
Just so everyone knows, I did this rout yesterday and it still has those bolted rap stations, but going from station two to three from the top is longer than 100 feet. (i.e. can't be done with one 60m rope) I figured this out the hard way, it's short by about 10-15 feet. Just a heads up. Besides that it's a great route to haul your girlfriend up and propose to her at the top. : ) Dave of the Kirtlands
|By Larry Shaw|
May 28, 2004
5 pitches? Climbed 45m to a set of anchors on the right 5.5-5.6. went 40m to the headwall 5.5. climbed the headwall 5.7 15m. call it 2 1/2.
|By Gabe Anderson|
Aug 9, 2004
You can do Lover's Leap with just one rope. Last year, in early summer of '03, myself and my partner made 2 rappel stations to the right of the Lover's Leap, 5.7. Go to the top and find the tree with dark colored slings and webbing on it and a quick link. Rap towards the cross and follow down. You will see 2 chained rap stations. This way you don't have to bring up 2 ropes.
|By Jason Wine|
From: Denver, Co
Oct 1, 2005
Wow, very fun route. For an intermediate lead or a beginner follow, this route is great on its own or as an alpine training route. The right trending crack is easy to find up there, just pick the line going up from the lowest point on the rock. The first pitch is really easy. There is a great belay ledge on the first pitch right after the first big roof (about 1/2 rope length up). the ledge is so sexy it is hard to pass up, but don't use it! Another 25 feet up or so are the first set of bolts. They are just to the right of the route a bit, on a ledge. The second pitch gets a little more interesting, 5.6 maybe. Stay on that until you hit a cave with bolts. You could build a condo on this ledge. The crux is right above the belay and felt almost 5.8 to me. Just a couple moves but very fun. Nice thing is it protects really well. Very fun finish. We rappeled down from the bolts at the top with two ropes. This great rap line brought us directly on top of the first anchor bolts. One more rap and it's time for beer in Morrison.
|By Buff Johnson|
Jan 18, 2006
2 pitches plus a short crux, you can get the first pitch at a soft 5.7 if you start just to the right of Unknown 5.9 boltline. The start of the first pitch is what gets everyone baffled that are new to the climb; if you go for an obvious crack (Where Tunas Flop .10b - aptly named), or go way right (5.4 to 5.5 - possible rope drag) you can have some troubles. Start to the right of the bolt line, look up to see a goal post in the top of the rock, that's your goal. Double length slings on the second pitch are key to reducing drag.
A newer 2-bolt rap anchor on top offers great rap position, but stance sucks, back to first ledge, 2 @ 60M ropes. The final rap, a single 60M will make it to the ground if you don't use the stopper knots, otherwise it's an easy 8' downclimb.
Overall, this is a great first multi-pitch outing experience if you stay on route.
|By Kevin Craig|
Apr 21, 2006
Great climb with an alpine feel! I agree that it's very Eldo-esque.
I fell at the crux when I flubbed the sequence but there's bomber gear at your waist and I got it second try. It's easy to plug the best jams with your gear, but you really don't need the crack to pull the crux - there's a bomber (for 5.7+) underclingy/sidepull-ish thingy that you can pseudo-layback and walk your feet up the crack until you can reach a decent hold with your right hand.
Only other thing that folks should be aware of is that although the climbing is easy after the crux (5.2 or .3???) the next semi-decent gear is at belay-ledge-fall) distance from the crux pro. I didn't notice this until I was belaying my second up. Not worth an "s" or "R" but worth knowing.
Crux pro is a #2 and a #1 Camalot or similar size. (looked a bit big to me for an orange and red Alien)
We rapped from the 2 new Fixe' ring bolts at the top. Here's the sequence...
1 - Short rap from the top to the P2 belay (also 2 bolts).
2- 55m-ish meter rap to the P1 belay - 3 bolt station on the left (there is also a 2-bolt chain station at about 35m on the right). If you want to bring a retrieval cord rather than a second rope, that worked for us for this rap.
3 - 30m rap to the ground.
Mark's beta on route-finding is right on, go for the goal posts! :^D Plus when in doubt, go right until you can go up a corner (where the gear is).
As for the start, there is a big pine tree that kind of stands a bit off by itself - we strated just above that.
|By Buff Johnson|
Apr 29, 2006
A good route indeed.
Monty offered some good tips, I updated my post on the crag page.
From: Morrison, Co
May 2, 2006
As of 5-6-06 the slings for the first rap off the boulder on the right side of Lover's Leap have been replaced. I went up earlier in the week, topped out and walked to the right to get to the boulder that we have been rapping off of for years only to find the slings had been cut and not replaced... Bastards! I replaced the slings and also kicked down about 20 cairns that have never been up there before. Who ever is doing this stop. We didn't need your help before and we don't need it now. This rap route can be done with 1 60m.
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 3, 2006
I climbed this route today, it was a lot of fun...the approach was easier then that of Cob Rock IMO (and the creek was completely dry). The route is a little bit over rated in my opinion most of it felt about 5.5, aside from the crux I felt I should have free soloed it(aside from a move or two on the lower sections).
I found the crux to be pretty easy once I got the gear, I didn't want to pull into the crux without getting some gear though (factor 2 falls are not good). So I down climbed a little till I found a nice yellow Metolius cam placement, which I made multi-directional with a green Alien. Then, I climbed into the crux but didn't find a really comfy stance so I got a little burned getting my #1 Camalot in and down climbed to a rest once I got it set. Then, I climbed through the crux to the top bolts without placing another piece the whole pitch (or 1/4 pitch is more like it).
I climbed pitch one until the bolts on the right on the nice ledge/stance (probly 30 m). Pitch 2 till the cave with the bolts (probly 30 m) and then the crux pitch (10 m?). Could this be done in 1 pitch with a 70M? This route can't be 450ft.
The rock can be a bit chossy in places, but the climbing is easy, so it's not a big deal if you are careful (my partner and I had no helmets). We rapped off of the tree then to the bolts to the north and west (I think it was the 50M rap route because the chains looked seldom used and rusty.)
Ps. does anyone have any more route info for this formation? I would be interested (there are some nice looking cracks in the center headwall of the buttress). Also I talked to one of the two other parties on the cliff today who did the 5.9 sport route left of the start of the 5.7 and they said it was sandbagged in their opinion and recomended trying it but to bring some small cams to supplement the bolts.
|By Buff Johnson|
Jul 17, 2006
Jay - with respect to the other lines, the problem I see is the amount of lichen on the rock, loose rock, runout sections, and unknown anchoring as to why more people haven't offered beta. The standard route is the best protected line on the rock, with the crux section offering adequate protection so you won't hit the ledge if you blow it or pump out; I've climb it enough to know you don't have to runout the last section & the vector to the new bolts can be protected once you exit for the second. It's a fun route for taking someone new to multi-pitch climbing.
However, most everything else on this rock is a no-fall climb; meaning you probably will hit something if you fall while leading.
The bolt line, Unknown 5.9 (someone must know something about the FFA of this line), is a mixed pro protected slab climb -- bring blue & black Aliens (or equiv.) or you will take a good sized fall & hit something; the second pitch has a couple of 5.9 moves but mostly goes into 5.8R with lichen covered rock to a 3 bolt anchor. The center line is Where Tunas Flop @ .10b; I was going to work on this summer & see about what condition the rock, anchoring, & fixed protection are in, but haven't had time. Also, a dihedral route more towards the East aspect, Ye Olde Hysterical, also at .10b & don't know what is offered for anchoring & fixed pro there either. Hubbel's book reported the parties as Kevin Smythe & Terry Smith '87 and Maurice Reed & partner '75, respectively.
(See the main crag page -- I've updated beta photo & some info 11-26-08).
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 19, 2006
You will have to let me know how Where Tunas Flop goes, I thought I saw a more clean line to the left or east of the Standard Route. seemed like some nice asthetic cracks run up the main headwall to the east of the Standard. I noticed them from the top at first and when looking at them again from the car it seemed like a line went up to them, I figured it might be Where Tunas Flop.
Keep us posted.
Jul 27, 2006
Climbed this rock today and managed to get well off-rote to the left onto what I think was one of the 5.9 variations before we finally traversed back right and joined up with the standard route on the final headwall/crack pitch. I thought the final pitch was solid 5.8, but I don't have a whole lot of experience with cracks, and I was spent from getting off route. The crack was also a bit wet which was surprising for this time of year. Either way- good, fun climb.
Tried the walk off to the east and ended up bushwacking for a good 45 minutes back to the base. The next time I will rap for sure. Also, the language above in the pitch descriptions is misleading as it says several times "climb up and left" and clearly you need to stay trending up and to the right for the easiest line.
Oct 7, 2006
Two of my friends and I climbed Lover's Leap yesterday and rapped down the right side face starting at the little tree. It held fast, and there is no sign of problems whatsoever. He had placed the yellow sling on it quite awhile back, and it is still there along with the blue one?
Maybe I am talking about a different rap station tree, but it is definitely secure. I mentioned to him reading previously about the tree being loose here on Mountain Project forums, and he stated that it was not acccurate. Please tell me which tree anchor you are referring to? He is going to take his Hilti up there and make some permanent anchors for rappelling by the "tree".
Thanks a bunch.
|By Rick Blair|
Oct 19, 2008
A shoe-sized rock landed 3 feet away from me at the bottom of the last rap, keep your helmet on!
Fun route, the 2nd pitch is long and fun! I have only lead a few 5.8s and this crux move felt as hard, but the gear is so excellent (reach way up and place a cam, you are basically TRed ) that I would not let this discourage a 5.7 leader or 5.6 for that matter. It's one move and you are over, I am 6' tall, if you are taller this will be easier. If you like this, you will like Mount Thorodin. I almost didn't give it 3 stars because of the traffic noise from 285, but it is a fun climb.
|By TJ Quirk|
From: Parker, CO
Sep 18, 2009
While enjoying the view on the middle rappel station after a beautiful climb, I took a rock the size of my fist to the collar bone. Hanging from a sling, staring at the bolt I was clipped into, I thought: 'next time I'm using a locker'.
A few minutes later we pulled the rope, and I took another rock on top of the helmet.
The next weekend we pulled our rappel rope at the third station and it stuck about 50' up- another adventure after the day was 'already over'. I recommend pulling the rope as far to the right (facing the cliff) to avoid crimping it in a boulder that leans against the wall.
Had to leave a cam behind to rap from, but retrieved it uneventfully a few days later.
Going back for more, two bio-hazard warnings admonished us about large amounts of blood on the first ledge (you could hear the flies before seeing anything).
This route brings more to the table than your average 5.7 crag.
- note: Matt- glad to hear it wasn't serious. Contact me if you want a picture of the signage.
- note: My dented bone reminds me to use an auto-block on rappel- I would have let go with my brake hand.
|By A. Wolaver|
From: Golden, CO
Apr 7, 2010
If you do the direct start, this route can be done in one pitch with a seventy meter rope. With a sixty, you can climb to the bolted anchor below the final cruxy, though quite short, headwall pitch. It certainly does not need to be done in four pitches. Three maybe if your doing the alternate bolted first pitch, which is nice.
From: englewood, co
Apr 28, 2010
Just got off this route on a beautiful day.
If you have a 60m rope I'd recommend doing this in two pitches. There are two great ledges half way up with plenty of great spots to build an anchor. The final pitch isn't as tough as it looks. Little awkward feet, but trust your holds, smear a little bit and you're golden. Kept a leisurely pace and were up and down in two hours. Great climb, 5 minutes from work. Love Colorado.
Mar 8, 2011
Three pitches not four or five. For anyone under 5ft 4in, the top pitch is tricky. The hand jams are spread out and hard to reach. Just a heads up.
|By jeff bryan|
From: Cortez, co
Apr 1, 2011
I have climbed this many times. It's no harder than 5.5 except for the last short pitch which is 5.7+. I free soloed it in 2007 and went right to avoid crux.
|By Matty H|
May 18, 2012
Climbed this last week. Good, decent climb. Just be aware of loose rock. Also had a considerable amount of rope drag climbing the second pitch. I placed a piece down low and even though I put a runner on it, it would have been better if I had run it out about 15 feet from the start to place my first piece. Just remember that if you do the climb.
|By Sir Kenneth Smith|
Sep 6, 2012
My climbing partner and I did this twice last weekend, the first time had to bail at the 2nd belay station and had to leave a couple biners. Came back the next day and added chains and quick links to the 2nd station so now you can rap safely from there. By attaching two ropes w/ a double fisherman's, you can rap from the end of the 2nd all the way down to the first station, it makes for a pretty quick descent.