One of the best slab routes anywhere! Talk about "'nuttin but dimes" this route edges up perfect rock and definatly seemed a bit harder then 10a (and I love slabs!) A great calf workout;I just wish it was a full pitch long.
This is a great slab route with well placed protection and it will give your calves a workout. I agree with Old Fart that the rating might be a bit on the low side.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 27, 2002 rating: 5.10c
Don't kid a kidder. And don't sandbag a...
10a? OK, admittedly slab on slopers and chips is my weakness, and maybe it was the 90+ degree heat... but I'd say that this climb is a lot harder than 5.10a. Either that or I just fell off of a 5.10a... Nah, my fragile ego can't handle that- must be harder. (snicker) The route is good fun, but my feet were crying bloody murder up top.
I also did find that near the second-to-last bolt is was much easier to step to the right and finish to the right than it was to stay left. I made it that way without falling.
In the summer, when this south-facing slab is hot enough to fry an egg on, this route could be near impossible!
Even when cool I agree it seemed harder than 10a, it is quite sustained. I backed off leading this sucker, if you have gear you can lead up "Emergency Entrance" and TR this route. I suppose you could also get to the top via I.V. League.
I'm going to have to chime in here since I started the comment thread. Yea, this route is probably " a little bit " under rated but in my personal grading scale is at most 10c/d. There aren't any slopers as Tony might suggest, just razor clean edges, some of the best I've ever laid finger on (but they are small). This is my "Gold" standard route for a fun moderate slab on the Front Range. An absolute must do at least once (since the approach is HIDEOUS for a route this short, or I'd be doing this climb once a month :-) ! )
Super awesome climb... a series of "finger nail cleans" and lots of balance. I topped this and fell once but, I blame that on the hot rock melting the soles of my shoes off... (do I get points for creativity on that excuse?) I plan to return and lead this with better shoes and in cooler weather. I'd say this is more like a 10c sport slab, because of the sustained crimps and micro-toes. Worth the 10-15 minute hike uphill.
I recently did Upside the Cranium on Monkey Skull and Panic in the Grey Room felt harder. Lower angle, but fewer holds. Just my vote, for what it's worth ...
Mama Mia that's a spicy slab route! From the bottom, I'd assumed the crux was the steepest part, right off the deck. Wrong-o! It starts hard and stays hard until about 20' from the top. Route-finding (if you can call it that) is key and you've got to get pretty close to see all the dime-edge holds you'll be doing pull-ups on. Doing it in 90+ degree heat made me nice and flexible, it's true, but my fingertips are blistered and my nails are [eroded] down to nothing. Yow!
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado Jul 20, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Yea this would be a pretty sick lead, we TR'd it. I've followed 10b's in Eldo easier and less sustained than this. Think microcrimp for 70'...and you'll be fine.
Great climb to scare the crap out of you if your a apspiring Slab Master. It makes your think and be on your toes until the last 20 ft or so. Lead this about 5 years ago. Scary lead. :)
I'd kick in 10b/c. This route was killer and spicy on lead. I wouldn't recommend trying this on hot/warmer days 'cause ya need the rubber to work. Much harder than most other slab route I've climbed (ie: Crest Jewel, North Dome, YNS)
An awesome lead I daydream about often these wintry days. I have an avi video of my leaderfall at the crux up high, and was hoping to convert the video into a few pictures. Any advice on what (preferably open source or otherwise free) software to use for this if any? Thanks!
I agree that this climb is temperature dependent. I climbed it on a cool overcast day in February and it wasn't that bad, and certainly easier than "Acts of Contrition" on the Lower Slabs. Many of the bolts are a bit reachy, which certainly adds to the excitement level and makes it feel more difficult.
Watch out getting to the second bolt, if you were to blow that clip you might hit the boulder behind the start.