Comanche Warrior has already seen a bunch of ascents, and that is the reason for putting it up here. The route starts in the West facing corner system of Scout Rock, and takes the headwall flake left of War Path. Comanche Warrior can be done in a single long pitch or as two short pitches.
P1. The first pitch is 5.9 and on excellent stone. A little tricky, but good fun. This part should be considered open to anyone wishing to climb it.
P2. The second pitch has been done free by myself, but has been red tagged for the present. When originally installed, this pitch looked very clean. However, close inspection of the flake system between bolts two and three revealed that the pinch flake was in fact fully cut - all around. I placed chalk "X" marks on the flake for now and a red sling on the first bolt.
As soon as is reasonably possible the flake will be removed, and the red point tried again, without the pinch. In the mean time, if you climb here, please leave the second pitch alone until it is safe. This pitch will be super-cool once it has been cleaned of the flake.
Protection
Two pitches with QD for both. The route can be done as a single 85 ft line or as two 40 -50 ft pitches. Four QD on the first are needed; seven on the second. Each pitch has a double bolt anchor at the top.
I really enjoyed the first pitch of Comm. Warrior. It has two distinct cruxes that both involve long reaches on good holds. Fun short route. The bolts seem to be intelligently located. The only problem is the close proximity to the highway for the belayer.
By Matt Juth From: Evergreen Apr 12, 2004 rating: 5.12a
According to Richard, the climb is open for business. I will pull the tag when I get a chance.
By Matt Juth From: Evergreen May 3, 2004 rating: 5.12a
B.S.!!!!!
Now the route is open for business. See the attached photo when it uploads.
11d, maybe 12a. If you work your way up the chimney, the crux is 1 move with 1 or 2 11ish moves following. Tricky body tension to avoid a barndoor, then two powerful moves to jugs. Felt a liitle harder with a 10 lb rock in my right hand!
IMPORTANT NOTE ON THE GRADING! There are 3 different grades for this route: 5.9, 5.10c/d, 5.12-. All of them are right... depending on your point of view. The description of the route was created with a 5.9 grade before the whole route was complete. The 5.9 only applies to the first pitch. The consensus reflects both pitches which Matt Juth says goes at 5.12a - put the 3 grades listed together and you get 5.10c/d (this is the most misleading grade of the 3). This was not clear to me and my partner when we decided to give it a go.
It's a nice route and certainly worth doing. I didn't get through the crux and will need to work it some more. Dividing the 85' route into 2 pitches is not necessary. Just bring enough draws and enjoy the good rest before the crux. Also taping your hands would be helpful for the beautiful, but cheese grater like hand jam off the belay (of the first pitch) below the crux.
Scout Rock
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