Git Up Scout takes the major feature of Scout Slab, a large flake, up to the main grey slab. Lots of ways to do the flake; I treated it like a chimney. The slab is thin and technical but well protected. Fun, moderate, with good moves give "Git Up Scout" its star.
Protection
QD only. This 80 - 85 ft route needs about ten draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. The top is very cozy. You can rap from here, but it is a lot more simple to walk off North.
This is a good route for those inspiring to lead. It's really well protected, and all of the more challenging moves are protected by waist to knee high bolts. The photo suggests the route goes up and left after the first bulge. The bolt line would suggest the route goes up and right after the first bulge. Kudos to Richard Wright for bolting some routes that everyone can enjoy!
Paul - The left variation has been freed. Bernard Gillett solved it without a fall using roughly the same beta that Mark Tarrant and I had tried. Each of my tries has been met with an awkward, and presently unsuccessful, attempt to get established in the corner. I'm not sure that being tall is a critical advantage, although Bernard is 6' 5". His beta has not yet worked for me, and I'm not sure that reflects a difference in height so much as a difference in skill.
HA! I wish I were 6' 5"... I think I'm about 6-3, having lost a half an inch in the last 15 years. I might be getting close to 6-5 in my plastic boots, but I had standard rock shoes on when I did this route.
The variation is called MERIT BADGE (I'm pretty sure I checked with Richard about adding this name, and he said he liked it -- last call, Richard, to change the name before I get my guidebook finished!). I rated it 5.12d, and there's a 5.12b (5.12a?) crux after the initial puzzler at the roof. Bring a #2 Camalot to lead it. It joins GIT 'EM UP SCOUT at the sixth bolt (you might be able to clip the fifth bolt, but it'd cause rope drag; the climbing is easy by this point).
I initially led the route with a standard belay (and lots of hangs to figure things out), then came back to it 2 or 3 times by myself, plus one more try with a partner. The redpoint came on one of my rope solo days.
BETA that worked for me: get right foot on obvious hand hold over lip (off to the right), then snap right hand UNDER right leg. I'm not sure what this position is called, some kind of modified figure 4 (I think a figure 4 has the opposite leg cradled in an arm, and here you have your right leg draped over your right elbow), but it is the most bizzare sequence I've ever used in my life. Anyway, contorted as such, suck everything into the rock with your right arm, and let fly for the left wall of the dihedral with the left hand tips, aiming for a bit of extra texture (it's not much; some little bumps) -- this is where height may come into play. If the left hand finds purchase, spin it around to palm the bumps.Now push like hell (I was worried I might hyper-extend my left elbow) with left hand and right foot, and roll over the roof until you can stand up on the right foot -- somewhere in there you can remove the right arm from underneath the leg, and paw at a divot in the corner. There's some crucial left foot work in here as well -- you have to bump it up once or twice under the roof in order to make the reach out left, and it helps push your waist/ass over the lip.
If anyone repeats this, I'd appreciate some feedback on the rating. It's a boulder problem crux, and I hate bouldering, so I'm really not sure how hard it is.
I'll defer completely to whatever Bernard thinks is right. Mark and I had it sussed pretty much as Bernard describes here, but were hanging in the opening. Even with his beta in hand, which he sent me shortly after freeing the move, I still failed to link it up. Once you get established in corner, it remains tricky but not outlandish. Bernard's opening is a bit outlandish and very inobvious. However, I haven't found anything else that works. It's kind of a nice little boulder problem. Merit Badge has a perplexing crux in an utterly safe environment. It's so easy to turn it into A0 without even intending to, however, even a wee bit of slack can make the case unambiguous. My unambiguous ascent is still A0. Perhaps at 5.12d, instead of some "big " number, we'll approach with a bit more certainty!!
I belayed one of Gillett's attempts on this route and I must say it is absolutely sick that he was able to rope solo this thing. I guess that's why we call him the Honemaster General. Kudos. It's A0 for me.
To clarify: I said I hate bouldering, and that's why it's hard for me to rate this route. I didn't mean to imply that I hate Merit Badge. Richard said: "It's kind of a nice little boulder problem," and I concur. The entire route is pretty cool, though I'd give it only one star as it's short with some scaley rock (the crux is a gas).
Crusty!? -- what the hell are you doing spraying that ancient nickname around in public?!? I'm going to defer to better judgment and keep YOUR moniker between you, me, and the rest of our defunct gang (hint: it isn't Crusty; that's his tame nickname). Thanks for the belay -- you gonna stop working one of these days and climb with me soon? The original QHM has left the state as of last week, and the BGCS has a vacant post to fill. (Apologies to all for the inside joke, but it will bring a nostalgic smile to Crusty's face).
Why rope solo 5.12d when you can climb it for real?If your in need of a belay slave or want to slave, email us.
This is our current group charter:Network of people who may live or may work in or near Longmont and want to climb rocks close to Longmont in the evening during the week and other times or at other places for that matter, wait is that everyone?
Hey Paul, this sounds like a real keen group. Do you guys have a tree fort too? And do the groups members get to wear steel lined shoes and kick each other in the crotch? Man, I wish I lived in Longmont...
Hi Paul - I tried to email you (via this site) when you posted the discussion group info a while ago, and it didn't work. Try emailing me, and if that doesn't work, I'm in the Longmont phone book.
"Why rope solo 5.12d when you can climb it for real?" Because it's better than climbing with the guy who wishes he lived in Longmont...
Hey, it's my net lurking buddy! I have not heard from you since the use fees thread...how the hell you doing?
You don't have to live in Longmont to get into the tree fort, but you got to be able to play well with others.
If your mom says it's ok, come on over!
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 12, 2008
Nice route. There is an alternative right start which adds a bit of value.
Bernard, that is called a figure-9. It's something used by mixed climbers, too...something you used to do. Much nicer to do without crampons, though. I'll have to back and try it.
Quality route for the grade, I thought 5.8. Well bolted. Not much road noise as opposed to most of the other climbs on Scout Rock that are right on the road.
Scout Slab
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