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December Wall
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A Long December 
Caeasar's 
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) 
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth 
Life After James 
Ranklands of the Infinity 
Telegraph Road 
Unnamed 
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure 

A Long December 

5.11a

   

FA: [B. Gillett, C. Hill, K. Younge, 2003]
Type: Trad
Length: 3 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 231 page views

Submitted By: Jeff Giddings on Dec 24, 2005


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Just after the first crux.


Description 

This route is 30-40 feet left of Life After James. Start in a very small left facing dihedral then up a nice finger crack (crux). After the finger crack traverse to the left then surmount a wild overhang with laybacks and high steps (good gear at the lip and the difficulty eases quickly so just go for it!). Two bolts with chains are at the end of the first pitch. There is a 5.9 bolted second pitch but you can also rap after the first with a 60m line. [There is a 3rd pitch, see comment below.]


Protection 

Lots of small cams and stoppers. Nothing larger than a #1 [Camalot] needed.



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By nolteboy
Dec 27, 2005

Better than it looks, for both quality of the climbing and quality of protection.

By Bernard Gillett
Dec 27, 2005

There's also a third pitch, up the crack directly above the double bolt anchor. 5.9 over initial roof, then easier to top (rappel 70', 98', 95' to ground). Rack to a #4 Friend; not as nice as the first two pitches. FA should also include Ken Younge and Chris Hill; we did it in 2003.

By Dougald MacDonald
Mar 24, 2008

Easy to TR by climbing the 5.10 Caesar's crack about 25 feet to the left to reach anchors at 95 feet. Excellent pitch!