BETA PHOTO: The second and third pitches (in poor light)
Description
This route climbs the prominent left facing dihedral system on the tallest section of December Wall.
I believe the first pitch was originally climbed from the bottom of the dihedral, and followed rather poor rock until the twin cracks could be reached, and then belayed at the first big ledge. Others have also used the crack in the back of the dihedral that Telegraph Road is bolted on, and traversed right to the twin cracks, and up to the ledge 5.8.
I climbed the route using the first pitch of Telegraph Road, and belayed from the anchors. This adds a fun 10+ pitch to the climb, and avoids the belay on the rock strewn ledge. You just need to assure the first piece is directionally good.
The second pitch is a beauty. Lieback and undercling the dihedral with slick feet. The crux is where you pull out left under a small roof. Belay at a large ledge. Watch the loose rocks around the belay. TCUs and Aliens make this a lot less strenuous. .10c
The third pitch follows the dihedral until it is possible to escape right before you reach the rotten rock at the roof. Small wires protect the top very well. Once you escape to the arete, follow easy rock to the top and belay at or near the top of the ridge.
To escape the ridge you can do a hand traverse to the bushes to the left, or get into the gully by downclimbing the ridge to the right, and then going up the gully (not fun) Rappel off Life after James' anchors (30 feet to the left, on a small ledge past the cairn. A protection bolt will get you to the anchors), or walk off to the west.
With Telegraph Road's first pitch this is a 2 star route. Otherwise 1 star.
Protection
Standard rack. TCUs or equivalent are helpful on pitch 2.
Photos of Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure Slideshow
The left start follows a dirty crack in the dihedral that you can't see on the photo, and goes at 5.8. The 5.11- indicated follows Telegraph's bolts on the arete 10 feet toward the camera.
28Oct06 Cleaned the first pitch. Towards the end of the climb after the hand crack we went left about 15 feet then through the overhangs, there was pro and climbing was 5.9ish --Ross
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