BETA PHOTO: Alvino's Arete. The crux headwall at the top can ...
Description
This is another new route by Alvino Pon. "Alvino's Arete" is a temporary name until the real name is known.
The route climbs the second arete left of Fogline, just left of the Spy Story corner. Begin about 40' left of Fogline below the arete. The first bolt can be seen about 45' up in a grungy area of rock.
Scramble up 25' to a small grassy ledge. Climb up 10' on grungy rock and place pro (red Alien) to protect a 5.6 move. Clip the first bolt shortly above. Continue up past another bolt in the grungy rock, then move up to the clean arete. Climb the arete, with airy 5.9 to 5.10a moves, to the final steep headwall.
The climbing gets harder here. At the 11th bolt, either continue straight up on small holds, or traverse right to a flared hand crack. I climbed the face right of the crack, using the crack and a small pine tree to the right. The crack variation is about 10c; the line following the bolts looked harder. The anchor bolts are a short distance above.
The leader should belay here and bring up the second, since it would take two ropes to lower.
Descent: With a single 60m rope, rappel 100' to a small ledge, from which you can downclimb (3rd class) 30' to the ground. With two ropes, rappel 130' directly to the ground.
The initial section of this climb is grungy, but the moves are good. The arete is clean and airy. The final headwall could use more cleaning. One star for good moves and good position, but there are some sections of uncleaned rock.
Protection
One or two cams (.5" to 1.25") and 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The climb is 130' long; bring a 60m rope or two ropes to rappel.
Did this after doing the Crooked Cross. Really fun route. Needs to be cleaned up quite a bit. Didn't notice any chipping on the route. Just one spot looked like a small block pulled off though.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
