This is the line of bolts shown on the Monkey Skull overview photo as route #5. Beginning slightly lower than the start of Casual Corner, then cross over that route and continue up the face staying left of the arete. There are some thin face moves that may have you climbing more horizontal (I am not sure exactly what that means anyway, try it), head up and finish with a bomber hand traverse and solid smearing to a mantle up onto the ledge.
Protection
Bolted, yet the Hubbel guide suggests #0 or #1 TCU as additional gear. Can be TR from the slings on the tree.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 17, 2003
Ah horizontal, figured out perhaps. At the crux, there are at least 2 ways to go. Mantle up without much for hands, clip, reach R with the foot, then reach further R with the R hand to a jug, but then you are too horizontal for the feet. Swing R and then up the arete. Also, you can do this moving to the arete earlier, then reach L for the clip.
Gear, a small wire before the 1st bolt, a green & then yellow Alien above the last bolt can make this sewn up.
By Jason Haas From: Westminster, CO Nov 20, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I'm almost inclined to rate this thing 5.9, but it's funny to see people arguing that Upside the Cranium is 5.10a or 5.10c or whatever. I thought Upside was way harder than this casual thing, not even comparable let alone easier than this. Just my two cents anyway.
I agree Upside is way harder, but this one still feels 10ish. Its a fun start if you chimney up to the left instead starting like Casual Corner.
By Curt Nelson From: Fort Collins Oct 4, 2009 rating: 5.10b/c
It is a fairly easy 10, but I felt the crux at the 4th? bolt could definitely be c for a couple of moves. For those of you that care... we put in a Zero cam to protect the start, orange TCU to get to the 1st bolt, and yellow TCU at the top.
RSS Feed
