Headed up to Spire Rock to climb Full Nelson Reilly. Just blasted up the middle of the face instead of the left side (as in Full Nelson proper). Climbing was fairly protectable (5.7/5.8). Joined Full Nelson Reilly at the roof. Clipped the single bolt and finished at the chains. Very fun steep crux, moving out from under the roof was exciting, the face had a real alpine feel.
Protection
Mid sized nuts and small cams can be used to protect the face. 1 bolt at the crux. Easy to clip coming out from under the roof. chains at the top. TR requires a 50m rope.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 26, 2003
I top roped Full Nelson Reilly, going up the arete. Fun airy 5.6 to 5.7 moves led to an unprotected 5.9 slab below the roof. On lead, one would climb the protectable corner to the left instead of this slab.
The crux move past the overhang was difficult; it felt like 10d or 11a.
Two stars for good moves, airy position, and clean rock.
I climbed this route yesterday and thought it was a great. Good postion but I would have to say I think its alittle harder than 10c.you get into the undercling than I used two small crimps, than get your feet up and hit a kind of slopey hold. I must of been way off because I've done my far share of 10's and this one made me think. I guess this makes it a good one
The Spire
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