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Original Route 

5.8

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 201 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 3, 2001


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Description 

For convenience sake, I have used numbering here that begins on the left with Killer Instinct as # 1 and swings right to the Wilford Roof as # 15. Original Route can be called # 12 with some option to see a few lines between it and the Wilford Roof. Climbing on the original route begins in deep slot 50 ft left of the Wilford Roof. Squirm up the slot to a good stem and start looking for pro. Chase the crack and flake to the right for a little sinusoidal climbing on perfect granite that eats up pro. Finish at the little tree above the crack at about 65 ft (not at 130 as described by Hubbel). There is an option to continue to the very top, but this looks unappealing.


Protection 

Bring a full set of caming units. I used #s 1, 2, 3 of Camalots and almost a full set of Friends, wires seemed optional.



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By Michael Kullman
Aug 26, 2003
rating: 5.7

Pretty nice climb for the grade I thought, this and the harder line to the left makes for a nice after work trad session.

This route seems more like 5.7 than 5.8, while the steep hand crack to the left is more like hard 5.9 than 5.7.

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 17, 2004
rating: 5.7+

I agree. It was not much harder than 5.7. The crack to the left felt 9ish to me.