This is a most awesome route, very reminescent of Yosemite. Start to the right of Panic in the gray roomand work up the slab and dihedral using stemming, then move into a crack/lieback and then you can either go straight up the nice thin hollow flake, or better yet lieback/undercling and traverse around it. It is a damn shame this route is not several pitches otherwise it would be an area classic.
Protection
Stoppers,hexes, tricams, and cams up to #3 camalot. route can be toproped from the 2 bolts at the top of Panic in the gray room, but if you top rope it place some pro or be aware of the slight pendulem.
Such a beautiful pitch, even in the middle of a thunderstorm! Definitely three stars (or five or six) and worth the hike. long runners are a good thing!
This route is barely one star, despite the glowing write-up. This route is useful to get a top rope on the nearby bolted face. Otherwise, it is hard to get too excited about this route. It is also more like 5.5 than 5.7.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Oct 21, 2002 rating: 5.7
I think it's all relative, but at a moderate grade, it is fun and worth the effort. 3stars? Not in my book, but not a bomb either. One or two stars, depending on what you are used to. Weighing it in versus other climbs in the immediate area of similar length, it is good. 2 stars by the local metric, one compared to what else is available in colorado.
Some of the possible placements are in a flake that might expand. Be careful.
Nice route and my first lead in almost two years. Definitely not a 5.7 but an enjoyable and varied route regardless with a little of everything, chimneying off the deck, a dihedral, a flake and some friction slab. With a 60m rope you can continue from the first set of cold-shuts up a nice slab to a second set of shuts. Rap in two stages back down; the walk-off (if you can call it that) is roundly aweful.
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado Jul 20, 2005 rating: 5.6
Climbed this tonight. Use this route to set up TR for next route to the left. Not a whole lot of meat on this bone, but the final flake is kinda cool to huck up and around. I wouldn't even call that (7) though.