Remission 

This route is a total sandbag and has serious goundfall potential for a true 5.7 leader! I'd have given this route 3 bombs if I could have!

The route is a bit of a thinker, but the moves are no harder than 7+ if you stay a fuzz right of the bolt line. And the bolt placement wasn't horrible. Just gotta know how to climb slab, my man. Could be worse - could be Point of Rocks, Texas. 80-90 foot 5.9 slab pitches on 2 rusted 1/4" bolts to manky homemmade anchors. Eep.

I agree with Old Fart, this route is friggin' desperate for a 5.7! It would be madness to recommend this to a newby 5.7 leader. Getting to the first bolt is quite technical (for 5.7), but even if you slide off you probably would just skid down onto the starting boulder (hopefully). After that, I thought it was very well protected, but the crux move after the third bolt has gotta be at least 5.8 (in my humble opinion)! This face is considerably harder than the crack to its right (Emergency Entrance).

I have to agree with George that this route is under rated. A 5.8 rating is more appropriate.

Re: Dave's comments. Slabs are my speciality and I love runout slabs; I grew up climbing ALL the great Apron "Death Climbs" in the Valley back in the '70s so I do know what I'm talking about. Try "Deep Throut's" 3rd pitch; 150'of very sustained 5.9 with one 1/4" at 75'off the belay which is also a single 1/4". Remmision is an OK climb for a skilled climber to set a toprope for some friends to jump on but to call this an "Easy or Moderate" climb for a new leader just out of the gym or used to areas like with "Beginner Friendly" bolting like the "Monastery" is inviting an accident. I climbed the route mostly left of the bolts because it seemed I could have clipped several of them out of the crack climb to the right(Admission),so maybe that upped my rating beacuse I thought it in the 5.8+ vs area. Actually, deliberatly or not , I and many of my friends feel that ALL! of the Infirmary routes ,upper and particularly lower, are massively sandbagged more so at the moderate grades. As another prominent poster to this site always says "Apply the Gold Standard".

This thing 'looks' about 5.7 from the ground but I was definitely sweating a bit once I got to the bulge. It's thin and I would have to agree that 5.7 is a tad light. The offwidth to the right was much easier for me.

Sheesh, I didn't mean to start a firestorm or offend anyone. I just don't think we really need to apply Monastery or Sport Park grading everywhere we climb. But then again, my first leads were at Donner Summit, CA (not known for soft grading) and my first 5.6 lead in Colorado was Calypso, and first 5.7 was Bastille Crack. That's what the guidebooks called 'em, and I'm not going to argue. Same with Remission.

OK, I admit, slabs are my weakness- my achillies heal- especially when you are dealing with chunky granite as well. I guess that it all looks like it will break off to me. I'm better off on the Flatiron sandstone. Anyway, I have climbed a lot of slabs. A good lot. Some from 5.2 to 5.11.

I don't climb at the Monastery or Sport Park, but I've done 450+ routes in Eldo, 100 in the Flatirons, and about 200 in Boulder Canyon. I can say with absolute certainty that most of the routes I have done are harder than 5.7, but not necessarily harder than this slab, at least not with my belly to the bolts or to the left (I did not go way right).

5.7? Sheesh, uh, guys, it is not 5.7 in my book. It was harder going left than right, and I went left on the first have-at-it. I felt like there was a single 5.10 move with what I did, but I probably missed a hold or something.

-T.

Hey, fun lead, a bit sandbagged. Not a dangerous climb if you ask me. Not that you did, but, you just have to know how to climb slabs, and more importantly "fall" safely on slabs. I bad lead fall probably wouldn't constitute more than a little rock rash. I led slightly right of the 3rd bolt, but went back and topped it to the left. It's easier to the right. I don't consider myself a great climber and I'd put the climb at a 5.8, but, I should also tell you that I have a long reach, my partners don'at always agree with my ratings. You can stand safely balanced just about anywhere up the route... so for less experienced leaders "Don't PANIC". Of course, there is the calf burn issue, and... in the dead heat of summer.... climb QUICK!

Here's one reason why these comments are so valuable. Whether it's truly 5.7 or not, the consensus is it could be much harder, and therefore not a great lead for a 5.7 leader. That's helpful information. If I had read these comments before I had tried to lead this route, I wouldn't have bothered -- 20 foot falls, even on bolts, do not thrill me. For the record, I thought the early moves harder than 5.7.

I have climbed this route a few times now, and I feel it is well worth the effort (I love slabs though). 5.7 *might* be a little light rating, but it's very doable, everything is actually pretty solid as far as slabs go. If you want fear and loathing, try 'Panic in the Grey Room' which is the bolted slab face to the right of Remission. It's listed as 9+/10a. It is *definitely* a 5.10 route, super thin and very demanding. I have yet to lead it, I generally lead the 5.7 crack to the right of it and which shares the bolt anchors at the top.

This was an [exhilarating] face climb. [Definitely] harder than 5.7, but there is enough working room on the face to make it 5.7 like wandering over to the crack to the right, then wandering back to the left..... the first bolt can be clipped to protect that weird high step move to get onto the slab. Being about a 5.7 climber it made me feel much better. [The] runouts were not that bad either because they were on easy terrain.

This is a good [finale] for an evening in this area. This route is good, but not great and I agree it is a bit sandbagged. Depending on which side of the bolts you go, this route could be anywhere from 5.8 to 5.10. It will make you think, but the angle is not that severe and sustained as Panic in the Gray Room...fun lead.

Fun route with an excellent and well protected crux about half way up. I did need to hold onto the crack on the right once on the way up but it seemed to be on at that point.

I felt this route was 5.9 by going right into the dihedral at the steep part. The initial step up also felt at least 5.8+.

I climb 5.11 face, 5.10 crack, and 5.10 slab. Slabs scare me, but partly due to runouts. I climb at a lot of sport areas, but maybe 15% trad at Eldo and nearby places.

The low angle of this slab is misleading, along with the posted 5.7 rating. I really enjoyed the climb but questioned why there such was a runout, even if it was on easier terrain (it looks like it would be a really ugly fall). Not recommended for 5.7 leaders.