Climb up the rock and enter into the most prominent chimney on the west face. Chimney angles slightly to the right. This is a great route for [beginners] and especially for a climber do their first chimney route.
Protection
Set up top rope from the chain anchor at the top of the chimney (they were placed by me about 6 years ago, in the location offering the cleanest rope use). WARNING_______ I strongly urge you to back up this anchor as some A__HOLE vandalized the bolt hanger to [the] right (Notice it was pounded flat and has marks like it was [beaten]). Whomever it was, this person was so desperate to take the KONG steel carabiner which was pinned to the chains. I may go replace this anchor in the future with new glue in bolts.
Added 2 new glue in bolts to the top of the route on 8/11/01. I was unable to remove the old beaten bolt (Becuase the head was mashed and the wrench kept slipping.
This fun chimney is filled with cracks, and protects very nicely. I used a #5, but it wasn't necessary. I don't know where we draw the line between spelunking and climbing though, but I was way inside that sucker.
A variation to this climb: When you get roughly to the height of the anchor on "But For a Silver Bullet", step left, and finish up the highly featured offwidth. There are some loose blocks up there that look scary, so watch out where you stand. Fun exit, though. Maybe 5.7 if you stay off the really easy ledges?
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