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DescriptionThe Fang is undoubtedly the premier sport crag in the SSV canyon. It presents some of the most difficult climbing in the canyon on flawless, solid granite. The main walls of The Fang face West and North, so the crag does not get the best year-round sun. The crag itself looms over the SSV canyon like some dark guardian gargoyl, more ominous than inviting. It looks like a good place to find Count Dracula hiding out from the summer sun. But don't be put off, The Count is no big deal, and the climbing is great. The hike in takes about 40 minutes, but is well worth the hump to pull down on some superb granite in a nice mountain setting. Just pick a warm day to climb at The Fang. Getting ThereThe Fang is situated about 9.1 miles up SSV canyon on CO Highway 7. There is a large, paved pull-out for parking. Hike down the road about 100 ft to a bridge that crosses the river (South). Follow the road around to the South side of the hill upon which The Fang sits. After about 1/2 mile, a faint climbers trail will take off to the right. The goal, if you can't find the trail, is to approach the West edge of the crag, and move around North to find the routes. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Fang:
Belligerent Buttress 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Perfect Stemetry 5.12c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Goldfinger 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet
Stiletto 5.13d Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet
Featured Route For The Fang
Goldfinger 5.13b CO : Lyons : ... : The Fang
This lengthy route climbs the center of the immaculate stone to the right of Stiletto. A rock climber with even the slightest attraction towards aesthetics will be magnetically drawn to this line. Climb through a ~20 foot band of choss to a small ledge and your first bolt. Continue up the just off-vertical face on five star stone for ~55 ft, moving between good edges and flakes (10d). Clip the bolt above the small roof from a sloppin...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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