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South Saint Vrain Canyon
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South Saint Vrain Canyon


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Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst
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Spring.


Description 

Located West of Lyons, the South Saint Vrain Canyon offers a considerable amount of climbing close to Boulder or to Longmont. As a granite canyon, many of the known routes in the SSV follow excellent crack systems on trad gear. Many of the newer lines have gone in as sport routes, on good faces or where the cracks are very short and intermittent. Routes can vary in length from half rope pitches to several rope length pitches. Granite quality is variable in the SSV. The best rock is well consolidated and featured with edges and flakes, while the worst is chossy and crystalline. Slab to vertical climbing is rather common on the older trad lines. However, many of the newer sport lines run through some big roof systems with steep the rule. Development of SSV sport climbing started many years ago with the Monkey Skull and The Fang, where Mark Rolofson and his associates have put up some very difficult climbs. Rock in the SSV seems to face in just about all directions, so it has been possible to climb here throughout the year. The best climbing is to be had in the summer and fall when temperatures are less comfortable further East or South.


Getting There 

The South Saint Vrain Canyon can be approached from Boulder North along route 36. This will take you to the intersection with route 66 one mile East of Lyons. From Longmont, simply take route 66 West to the town of Lyons. At the intersection of routes 66 and 36, head West into Lyons and to the main intersection that forks North to Estes Park on highway 36 or South to Estes Park via the SSV canyon and highway 7. Set the odometer from this intersection; climbing in the SSV begins at The Scout Rock 3.1 miles upstream on highway 7.


Link to S St Vrain Ice 

Link.



Featured Route For South Saint Vrain Canyon
Upper third of the pitch.

Upside The Cranium 5.10c  CO : Lyons : ... : The Monkey Skull
Upside The Cranium is the best of the lines on the Monkey Skull. It begins just right of the main trad dihedral on greyish, sub-vertical rock. The route begins to steepen as you approach bolt 4 and finishes up just about vertical. No one move is all that difficult, and most moves are 5.10- until near the last bolt where a long reach on thin but good edges delivers the crux (5.10c). Worth a pair of stars for the good rock, the continuity, and the ...[more]


Add Comment Comments on South Saint Vrain Canyon
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 5, 2007
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 26, 2001

SSV is similar to Boulder Canyon in geology and climbing opportunities. SSV is NOTORIOUS for POISON IVY.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 3, 2001

Also note: Rattlesnakes, Ticks, Mountain Lions, Bighorn Sheep, Loose Rock, Ton's of Lichen, Sketchy Gear, Lightning, Flash Floods, Hail, Blizzards, Steep Hillsides with tons of weeds, Cactus, Fast Water, Thin Ice, and Hunters who'll shoot anything that isn't wearing orange (you may be a target!). Wear a helmet and be careful out there! -thudgel@aol.com

By Anonymous Coward
May 13, 2002

The routes are difficult to find and the rock is poor. Got the worst-ever case of poison ivy and my partner broke his ankle on the approach; rattle snakes near the trail. The locals all seem to be gun-toating rednecks. Definately not worth the drive; Boulder Canyon and Eldo are far better bets.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 7, 2002

My name is Sergio Poyares and I am from Brazil. I used to live and climbing in Boulder for two years (1998/1999).I climbed in South Saint Vrain Canyon a couples of weeks a go(yes 2002) in a place called Lost Buttress. I did four greats news routes. Two bolteds (5.10b and 5.8+)two pitches and two trads 2 pitches (5.8 and 5.10a). Probabily the 5.10a trad was the FA on lead. The SSVC is an excelent climb area and no chalk prints there, yet!

By Ron Radzieta
Aug 16, 2002

Sergio, If you'd like assistence to photo document your FA I'd be happy to join up with you and get you proper credit. One of my climbing partners spent time in Brazil and speaks Portuguese. I see that Lost Buttress is not listed at this site and it would be neat to chisel your name, so to speak, on your FA and add it to this signficant database documenting climbs of the Front Range. If you are still in the USA we should get record your FA and name it, maybe something to do with Brazil, it always kicks butt in worlds soccer, or something like that.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 18, 2002

wow, when I went there they had restrooms, a fee lemonade stand, cleared paths directly to the base of the walls and little signs for the routes at the base! I never saw any rattle snakes, though I did see a friendly little groundhog eat a garter snake and crawl back into a hole below a plaque honoring his committment to defending climbers from the oh-so-wild SSV. Oh yeah, and don't forget, they even give you a bazooka at the lemonade stand to fend off those mountain lions, which turned out to be the neighborhood cat lady's only family. I do appreciate the bazooka, however, due to the fact that those cats do get kinda ornery sometimes, come looking for a leg to rub ass on. I'd rather blow 'em up than have 'em rub ass on my shins!

By Petro
From: Golden, CO
Dec 5, 2002

I've heard rumors of a new guide for SSV, any truth? When will it be out? I've been climbing SSV for a year now, and it appears to have a lot of new-route potential.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 13, 2002

Wanna know what I've heard? Rumor has it that the new guide won't list established routes (other than the author's new creations). It's main focus will be to describe _new route potential_ for those who don't seem to have enough time to go look around on their own.........Hmmm, an idea .........WAKE UP!!

By Bernard Gillett
Dec 14, 2002

For the record: I'm working on a guide to SSV (don't know whether the rumors listed above refer to me or not -- there certainly may be others who intend to write a guide to SSV). My hope is to include every route I know about. At present there are 397 routes on about 75 formations listed on my computer file, and that's just for SSV (it would be natural to include information on North SV Canyon as well, perhaps even throwing in the bouldering areas at Big Elk Meadows and the Lion's Den). For comparison, I think there are about 400 routes in my Estes Park guide for the Lumpy Ridge area. Of course the routes at Lumpy Ridge are often multi-pitch climbs, whereas one or two pitch lines (plus a lot of half-pitch leads on small rocks) are the rule at SSV, but there's a TON of routes in SSV that have not seen the light of day in a guidebook, and there are still big formations that don't have any established routes on them as far as I can tell. If you want to help me add to the list, please send information to me via this website.

Re: Sergio Poyares' comment above: the routes he speaks of are on a cliff named The Coliseum (the partner with whom he was climbing had been using the temporary name "Lost Buttress" when the routes went up; it's since been named The Coliseum). He did Planetary Pull (5.8 *), Hollow Man (5.8 **), Vrainavore (5.10a * or **), and Lost in Time (5.10b ***). The Coliseum is about 8.5 miles up the canyon on the other side of the river, but you won't want to climb there for a few months (way too cold in the winter as it faces north for the most part). Springtime means nasty river crossing -- it's mostly a summer and fall crag. If you drive up there to check it out, realize that the cliff is visible from the road for just a few seconds (while driving), and there are two other large cliffs nearby (both with new routes on them). The Coliseum is the lower of the three formations and on the left; it has a wild 15 foot roof crack (5.11b) near the top center.

I'm not at all certain when I'll be ready to publish a guide to SSV. I could probably crank out the essential information in about 6 months, but the SSV is a beautiful area that deserves a nice guidebook... maybe a year or more?

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 12, 2003

Firts time caller long time listener with a question who and why are people bolting raod cut in the beautiful South Saint Vrain? -Tanner Humphrey-

By Matt Johnson
Apr 7, 2003

i was wondering if anyone new of any new routes on the PIZ. i was told of some new bolted lines.. is this true? if so any info would be great!! looking forward to the new guide!!

By Anonymous Coward
May 6, 2003

Subj: South St. Vrain bolting epidemic II Date: 5/6/2003 2:47:06 PM Mountain Daylight Time From: Tbliffel To: thumphrey@lowealpine.com CC: Tbliffel

To whoever added bolts to:

The SSV routes Full Nelson Riley (Dire spire) and Where's My Toothpick ( the small technical turret across the highway from Sentinal rock ): I will be removing the first bolt on your 'new' bolted line on Dire Spire to the right of Full Nelson Riley, as it is placed on the initial moves of my route. Furthermore, how can you possibly justify pounding (3) pitons as FIXED GEAR into cracks and seams which accept gear easily on your "new" line? Some of us don't need a clip every eight feet on 5.8 slab- if you can't lead it on the perfectly good natural gear placements, top rope it. You just bolted a line which can be and has been lead on gear.I will also be removing the bolt at the crux of the aforementioned turret's SW face, as it was led (by me) without fixed pro before your bolt was placed, and can be protected easily with a small cam or tri-cam. . I have lately noticed bolted road-cut in the SSV. This is truly pathetic. I have climbed some of these new childproof bolt-ladders now popping up in the canyon. Many are on what can only be described as piss-poor rock. Who put in the bolts on the pile left of bullshit rock? Friends of mine tried it and pulled off a block the size of a microwave low on the "route". Are you even leading these routes, whoever you are? Do you realize that many of these lines you are bolting were passed over long ago as being too chossy or friable to be worthwhile? Much of the rock in the Vrain is marginal quality, and you really have to look around for the good stuff. You are bolting lines which are awfully hard to be proud of. Just remember that we are in Boulder County and should always bear in mind that ANY suspected FFA (or FA or whatever it is you do) is very likely to have been climbed before. If you're in the Vrain, it has likely been climbed by people who do not rely on fixed pro. Placing pro is a skill which is integral to our sport, and eliminating potential clean gear placements by bashing pins into them is incredibly selfish and shows contempt for the skills of trad leaders. Keep your silly bolts off of my routes.

Tom Brown

By Anonymous Coward
May 6, 2003

tom, if someone wanted to discuss the st. vrain problem with you outside of a public forum. how would they contact you? thanks.

By Bernard Gillett
May 7, 2003

As AC says above, this all might best be discussed outside the public forum -- but what the hell, the topics have all been breached, and I feel like adding two cents in an attempt to answer some of the questions raised here.

Tanner writes: who and why are people bolting road cuts in SSV? Tom writes: I have noticed bolted road cuts in the SSV...

A partial answer: Richard Wright did most of the bolt routes at Scout Rock. Alvino Pon bolted up Turd World Country (road cut 1/2 mile upstream from Scout). Alvino's done a bunch of new routes on road side crags (not sure where you want to draw the line between road "cuts" and roadside "crags"), including (but not limited to) Roadside Rock, The Ant (100 yards west of Roadside), Raptor Rock (just above The Narrows on right), Little Ogre (across stream, but pretty near the road -- does that qualify as "roadside?), and loads more on crags within shouting distance of the road. I think it was largely Mark Rolofson and friends who did many of the early bolt routes on The Narrows Slab. If I have my information right, Tanner Humphrey and Tom Brown did Gas Huffer (a more recent route) on the dynamited (?) section of the Narrows Slabs, and Tom installed bolt belays for a route directly across the river from here (Guided by Voices -- did the dynamiting that made way for the road so many years ago include the base of the tower on which Guided By Voices is located? If so, does that qualify it as a "road cut"?). This is where I'm confused: Tanner and Tom seem to be upset about the new bolts, but they put up their own road-cut route just a couple years ago. Clear this up if you'd like; I may have my facts wrong.

Trying to answer why these people decided to bolt lines so near the road is beyond my limited clairvoyant abilities. But my guess is that whatever motivated Tanner and Tom to put in some of their near-the-road routes is at work for the other people who have done it.

To Matt Johnson: Yes, it's true that there are some new bolted lines on the Piz Badille. I've not done them, but my understanding is that Alvino Pon put some new routes in on the west wall of the crag.

Regarding Tom Brown's post: Alvino bolted up the slab just right of Full Nelson Reilly on The Spire. I'm almost certain that he is not a frequent visitor to this site, so he would have been unaware of Paul Findley's direct start posted under Full Nelson. Alvino also bolted that eroding slab immediately left of Bullshit Rock's main face. Did your friends finish the route after pulling off the big block? I ask because I'm trying to be as accurate as possible in the guide I'm writing as to who did what first, and I very recently rope-soloed the route to the top. I, too, trundled some large blocks, and I agree that this route should have been left unbolted.

" Are you even leading these routes, whoever you are?" I can't be sure about this, but my impression is that Alvino is not leading the SSV routes he's been establishing in the recent past. He puts in the bolts and fixed pins on rappel and by himself, and then moves onto the next crag-du-jour. He wrote a little guidebook to SSV last year, and I've been working through these lines one by one (doing research for my guide). I've often found crucial holds full of lichen, dirt in the cracks, and very little evidence that these routes (some of them anyway) have been led. I've talked to him a few times over the past year, and he's admitted as much (no redpoints on some of his climbs). I believe almost all of his routes in the last year have not been led, at least not by him (I've led scores of his routes, but he's putting them in faster than I can climb them all).

As for Where's My Toothpick: I'm pretty sure Tim Hudgel put the bolt in on that route, and I'm pretty sure he was unaware that you had climbed it first. I'd consider the context in which both of your routes got extra bolts added to them before your remove the hangers - I doubt there was any malicious intent on either Tim or Alvino's part; they likely thought they were covering new ground. (But do whatever you'd like; I'm not the rock police. I do climb in SSV a lot, though, and I wonder if a bolt hanger war is going to help the situation).

To be clear: I'm as unhappy as you (Tom and Tanner) are about the piles-of-crap that have been bolted in the last few years. Just the other day I climbed one of Alvino's routes on the left margin of The Sentinel (leftmost bolted arete), and was appalled to find a half dozen carved holds at the top of the route. It's not the first of his routes where I've suspected some dubious-looking holds, but this was so obvious as to be alarming. What to do about it? Beats me, but it's pretty obvious (see discussion about chipping on this site) that those who want to chip holds, put up lousy bolt routes, or bolts next to cracks are going to do so no matter the outcry from the community. Consider your own route (I'm thinking of Gas Huffer) before you do anything too radical (again, do whatever the hell you please, though I'd appreciate an email/phone call before you yank any of my bolts).

Back to AC: Tom Brown listed his email with his post (tbliffel@aol.com), so you can reach him there to talk about this off the record. Click on my name and you can email me from this site - I'd like to be included in the discussion if you're willing.

By Anonymous Coward
May 7, 2003

Hi Bernard- Thanks for your input. I would distinguish "gashuffer" from the other crap being bolted along the road in several ways. Have you climbed it? The rock is very good, first of all, and only three bolts were needed over 85' of climbing. Most of the route accepts gear. If you consider this route to be road cut, then eveything else in the Narrows is as well. The route would clearly be x-rated without the fixed pro. The route is alone on its own part of the wall, and follows a natural line. I think it is a stretch to lump this line among the true road cut routes which Alvino is apparently bolting. Guided by Voices is on high-quality, [absolutely] natural rock as you know, Bernard, and has no bolts. I am not shocked to learn of Alvino's manufacturing in the Vrain, but I am of course appalled. Where is the outrage here, folks? Do you think this would go unnoticed/unprotested in other major Boulder areas? Choss is being bolted, pins are being left in place where good gear placements exist, bolts are being ADDED to lines which have been led repeatedly on gear, and holds are being MANUFACTURED. I will probably not remove the fixed pro which has popped up on my lines, but if any more goes in, it will be removed. (Got your attention, though, didn't I?) No, a bolt war probably would not be good, but the threat of one might slow the frenzied bolting down. I have always regretted placing the first bolt on the route "bullshit detector" after the fact because it is kind of close to a gear placement. I have often thought of removing it, and I just may. I, too, bolt in the Vrain, but only as a LAST [RESORT], when neither I nor anyone I know can lead the route without risking serious injury or death. The latest batch of closely bolted Vrain lines are in a whole different league, as anyone who has climbed them knows. No respect for bold leaders, lots of bad rock, no taste, and no sense of history. We of course need a complete guidebook such that we all know what is what. Perhaps those of us who are compulsive drillers could wait until the book comes out or check with Bernard before they drill. Is anyone climbing in the Vrain? (I know you are, Bernard- your new routes on Acrophile are cool) Has anyone tried ground-upping some of these easier lines? It is one of our sport's great adventures; placing pro is a lot easier than placing bolts. Keep your drills off of the south narrows massif.(home of GBV and a couple of Bernard's lines). The naturally protectable 5.11 project there has been climbed free but remains to be led. It is run-out, desperate and hard to protect. May it stay [that] way forever.

Tom Brown

By Anonymous Coward
May 7, 2003

Howdy Bernard- You are correct that there are bolted anchors on Guided by Voices- what I meant is that there is no fixed pro for the leader. The anchor on the face is to avoid the really bad rope drag involved in doing our line in one pitch; the one at the top is to acccess the route during high water. As far as I know it is only reachable via a rap during spring runoff (although Mark Howe established a variation after we put up GBV which maybe would work during high water). I think that your comparison of GBV and Gashuffer and "Turd World" is invalid, but I respect your opinion. The former are nice lines, and the latter is simply embarrassing, in my opinion. Alvino has put up great lines- why is he doing this? I wasn't entirely disappointed with Scout rock until I saw the epoxy and led some of the ball-bearing rock there. Some folks probably love it there, and that's cool.

Tom Brown

By Bernard Gillett
May 8, 2003

Thanks for your replies, Tom. You're right: Gashuffer is not in the same category as Turd World, and GBV is an awesome line, one that gets 3 stars in my opinion (and I appreciate the bolted belays). I was only trying to point out that it's somewhat hypocritical (or unfair) to decry other people's bolt jobs when you (and I) have installed our fair share of bolts. It's too easy to say "my bolted lines are good, but this guy's routes are unjustifiable." (So easy, in fact, that I did it myself in my last post when I lamented about all of the piles-of-crap that are getting bolted. I'll stand by my opinion, but with the caveat that it is nothing more than my opinion. There's enough rock in that canyon to support many styles of climbing, and anyone who wishes to climb on the choss piles of the Vrain has that prerogative.)

Alvino, was that you with the "LICK IT..." post? Sorry for slagging your routes in a public forum... I might not have done it save that SO MANY people are against manufacturing holds, and I think it's worth it to register a complaint in this regard. As Tom pointed out, you've done some great lines in the past, and it seems odd that you'd be willing to step so far over the bounds of good taste. Chime in again (or call me); I don't see why we can't have a civil discussion on the matter, even if we disagree on many issues.

Dongi: informations on St Lame is coming to a store near you as soon as I can make it happen. I don't know whether I can write a guide in a format that you may be able to read, but I'll gives it a shot of my best.

By Michael Kullman
May 21, 2003

Anybody know the name / grade of the new bolted route on the Monkey Skull? It's between Hollow Be Thy Name and Sunshine Dihedral and has red bolt hangers.

By Bernard Gillett
May 21, 2003

The new route on the Monkey Skull that Michael asks about is an Alvino Pon route, one that he installed this spring. Here are my notes on it:

Clip 12 red bolts left of Sunshine Dihedral. 5.10a crux at 4th bolt, go right at 8th bolt, then back left, and don't clip 9th bolt. Contrived crux straight up here, I guess. Another crux at 10th bolt. Can place #0.5 Fr. above 11th bolt, and #1 Camalot above last bolt. Rap 100 feet to very short downclimb. 115 foot route. FA: Alvino put the bolts in, 2003. FFA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Bodnar probably did the first redpoint. It was climbed fifteen minutes later by another party at the wall, and may have been done before our ascent (April 10, 2003).

I don't know the name of the route yet; perhaps Alvino can supply that info if he reads this. I thought it was a nice route: good rock, nice long pitch, and good position. One or two stars, maybe 5.10b the way we did it. My guess is that Alvino intended for the route to go straight up at the 9th bolt, but I usually climb bolted routes the same way I do traditionally protected lines: find the easiest way to the top.The way we climbed it, one would have to reach back down to clip the 9th bolt, and by this time it's just one more move to the 10th bolt (seemed safe to me).

Alvino also has little pieces of tape on the far right side of the west face of Monkey Skull, and probably an anchor above those pieces of tape (which are visible from the road with binoculars if you know where to look). He uses tape to mark where the bolts should go, so another line may be installed in the future at this location.

Answering Matt's question posted under the Monkey Skull: Guided By Voices is on the south side of the Narrows, on a formation that residents in Allenspark call Mechanical Man. Walk to the base of Alley Cat Street on the North Narrows Slab (a route that appears in all of the previous guides to SSV Canyon), and look across the river. You should see Pon Scum and Bull Fight (short bolt routes published previously). GBV is to the right of these -- look for a single ring bolt anchor about 20 feet above the river, then a double bolt anchor about 60 feet higher (and there's a single bolt anchor at the top of the wall that is not visible from Alley Cat Street). Unless you're able to kayak grade V rapids, you'll want to wait for the river to go down before trying the route. Cross the river above Mecanical Man (on boulders in the fall), go up gully above lone cottonwood tree (lots of poison ivy). Traverse left out of the gully to the big ledge on the NW side (a bit of third class). If you've located the top bolt from the road (can see it from higher up the canyon), you'll know where to rope down in order to reach the bolt. Back it up with #2 Fr., and rap to mid-cliff anchors, then rap to single bolt 20 feet above river (back it up with #6 Rock). Your rope will fall into the river when you pull it from mid-cliff anchors unless you place a piece of gear or two in the crack (it's pretty obvious) as you rappel-- clip rope into gear so that when you pull rope, it stays out of the water. Now climb back out, following obvious crack line, with a couple variations possible. Tom Brown and Tanner Humphrey did the FA, and called it 5.9 (I thought it was 5.9+). It's one of the best 5.9s in the canyon: the rock is to die for, the position above the river is exhilarating, and the climbing is superb. Nice job, Tom and Tanner! I'm looking forward to hearing about the 5.11 line you're working on next to GBV.

By Michael S. McCranie
Jun 16, 2003

Bernard - thanks for the info on Alvino's new route.

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Jun 16, 2003

Has anyone climbed those upper routes on the Piz Badille? From the ground, I can't tell if they are total piles or beautiful routes. I'm going to head up there this month, but it would be nice to know what I am getting into!

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 24, 2003

Floating a trial balloon here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/longmont_climbers

Go to this web site to join a discussion group, I am looking to build a group of people who either like or are "sentenced" to climb in the SSV canyon excessively.

Who knows, you might come to enjoy it, I have.

By Michael Kullman
Aug 13, 2003

We did Crooked Cross yesterday and noticed that there was a new looking (and very long) bolted line to the right of I Spy. Anyone know the name / grade of this route?

By Bernard Gillett
Aug 13, 2003

I'm not certain where I SPY is located, but you'll actually find two long bolt routes around the corner (left) from Crooked Cross. The first is FOGLINE (FA: Tim Hudgel): 5.10a (though some rate it 5.10b, and I think Tim told me it was 5.11). It's got 12 bolts, excellent rock, 2 stars (maybe even 3), with a crux between bolt 2 and 3, and lots of 5.9 moves. Great route. Rappel 105' from double bolts (be careful with 60 m ropes). The dihedral immediately left of this *might* be I Spy, but Tim says he spent two days cleaning it, and very much doubts it had been done before. He call's it KOON'S CORNER, and it's a worthy 5.9 gear route -- go to the bolts on Fogline, or to the bolts a little lower down on the arete to the left (100 foot rappel). The left set of bolts were placed to work on the sharp arete above the tree, but Tim never finished that line. The hanging corner right of Fogline was also climbed by Tim (perhaps this is I Spy? -- Hubbel locates I Spy in this hanging corner in his photo, but his topo shows it one corner to the left) -- it goes at 5.8 or 5.8+, with a runout at the beginning to access the hanging corner, and a nice hand crack to finish (ends at Fogline's bolts).

The second bolt route follows the next arete left from Tim's unfinished line. Begin with 30 feet of scrambling with a 5.6 move at the top (can place gear), then clip 12 bolts along nice arete to 2-bolt anchor (130 feet). This is an Alvino Pon route, and it's the one mentioned in the comments above that has a half dozen carved holds at the top (5.10 crux up here). It's a good route, soured by the manufactured holds at the top. The dirty dihedral just right of this is probably Spy Story -- it's got a 1960's style vertical knifeblade fixed in it.

By Michael Kullman
Aug 14, 2003

Bernard - thanks once again for the beta. Fogline is the route we were interested in, looks like a sweet line from the ground. We'll probably go check it out tonight.

By Michael Kullman
Aug 15, 2003

Thumbs up for Fogline - very fun, great route for moderate leaders. 5.10a seems like a fair rating, most of it felt 5.9ish, lots of good rest stances to plot out your next moves.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 2, 2003

Alvino Pon Is over bolting low quality lines and is doing a great diservice to the canyon and his name. I hope he reads this and stops putting up bolted garbage.

Friend of the canyon,Jack Meyer

By A concerned citizen
Jan 25, 2004

thanks jack, couldn't agree more. the vrain is a special place and we should try to keep it that way. if anyone is really interested in chipping/ bolting with roadside access, i can recommend several pristine bridges and overpasses right here in longmont. (very close to many pubs). -chuckphlegm-

By Jim Cormier
May 24, 2004

Bernard: I did a fair amount of bolting in SSV. However I did not bolt any routes. I bolted the anchors for top roping and rappelling. I put many of the upper anchors in at Scout Rock and was doing so at least 7-8 years ago. I used this area for instructing my scout troop and also for teaching several people how to aid climb and learn pitoncraft (Most of the aid lines were right of the road and there are some bolts at the top of these) I did other similar anchors at Lower Infirmary (Here it was to add to single bolt top anchors), The Spire, and Roadside Rock.If you need any other info let me know.

Jim Cormier P.O. Box 1504 Hereford, Arizona 85615

(520) 378-2216

By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Jun 15, 2004

Tis the season!

The Cheat (Cheet?) grass is back, and has gone to seed. Bring Throwaway socks, and shoes that you don't care too much about. Poison Ivy is in full bloom as well.Ahhhhhh. The Vrain......

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 30, 2004

In June 2004 Ron Olsen and I performed the following anchor upgrades.

-added quick links to top of first pitch of Comanche Warrior on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to anchor on Alley Cat Street-replaced first bolt (in original hole) of Cornered on Scout Rock-removed smash link and added quick links to the anchor of Upside the Cranium on the Monkey Skull-added quick links to anchor of the arete route left of Sunshine Dihedral on the Monkey Skulk

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). Visit their website at www.safeclimbing.org. They appreciate your support.

By Wade Easley
Aug 3, 2004

So many rocks, so many opinions.

Reading above: it's clear that there are some folk out there that care deeply about the SSV. They care so deeply that a few people have take ownership of some of the rocks and several of the routes. They should, it's a great place. I've been enjoying the SSV since the early 90's. As long as we can continue to play well with others I'm sure we can enjoy it for a few more decades to come.

Where should a bolt go? Why wasn't a bolt put somewhere else? Is it really 5.9+? How hard is a 5.9+? Why are people still using plated steel hardware? Haven't these plated steel users ever been on a climb that was established more than 20 years ago?

Yep, I own a drill and yes I have bolted in the SSV. There is little published information about the SSV. Who had what first accent, when, and with whom? With the exception of the FEW climbs mentioned in a few guidebooks, nobody knows who's done what where. Maybe I had the first accent and not Mr. Highorse. Is Mr. Highorse certain he had the first accent.? Why did Mr. Highorse run out such a long unprotected section? Was he climbing with Mr. Dumass that day?

I don't think I've bolted over anyone else's lines. I have added alternate finishes. I don't bolt cracks or choss. If someone wants to waste their dollar by bolting choss, have at it. For those that don't like climbing chossy or rotten rock, don't climb the chossy bolted routes. It would be a good idea to stay away from the desert, too.

One of the things that draws me to the SSV is it's proximity to Boulder Canyon and the City of Boulder. It's just far enough away that most of the malignant attitudes of the battling rock gods haven't made it that far north. That is until I read the string above.

I understand that if you become controversial in Boulder Canyon it can result in getting beat with an ice axe. Let's not let this attitude spread to the SSV. If you want to climb in an area where every bolt has to be approved by a committee, there are places on the Front Range. Look south! If you want to cry because someone made "your" climb safer, look west. If you want to appreciate the time, money and effort that fellow climbers have invested, and not worry about the minutia found at "other" climbing areas, I'll see you in the SSV.

By brent armstrong
From: Closer to RR than the Strip
Jun 24, 2005

Is this most recent AC comment from Alvino or what?

I've never known Bernard to fart too much, maybe the case is different with Mr. Meyer, but I don't know him...or does that fancy word mean something else?

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 27, 2005

Question for Bernard: how is that new SSV guide coming along? Looking forward to it!

By Luis Barandiaran
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 28, 2005

A friend and I [received] an email from Bernard a couple weeks ago saying the guidebook was going well. His only problem is that he and his partners keep finding more cool routes! Let's hope it can come out sooner than later.... we're itchin' to lift the lid on the new treasure trove.... Thanks for all your work, Bernard! Keep it up!

By cameron
Sep 22, 2005

SSV has some great routes for the FR. Is there some poison ivy? Sure, but if you don't know how to identify poison ivy, well. . . . Heya Bernard, I'm looking forward to that guide! There are many routes that are not shown in my Hubbel guide!

By Seth Zastera
Jul 5, 2007

I am up in the Allenspark, CO area and looking for some good local bouldering.... A V6/7 boulder project would be awesome.... I have found some marked up projects in the Ironclads/Ironsides area, but if there is more out there, I would be desperate to know.... If any info please email me back at radrocklgr@yahoo.com...Thanks!