Haus is probably the most well known rock in Summit County. It is a locals' favorite and provides climbing anywhere from 5.7 to 5.14a. All routes at Haus Rock are bolted, and most climbs can even be set up on Top Rope.
Excerpted from a Pat Thompson comment: There is a guide book for this small area. High Country Crags by Scott Astaldi and Mike Gruber. It was printed in '93 so the newer routes are not in it.
Getting There
Keystone crags (also known as Montezuma) lie just a couple of miles East of Keystone (the town) on the South flank of Porcupine Peak. The most expedient approach is to drive to Dillon and take 6th avenue East to Keystone. After the last shops in town continue East - as though you were headed to A-Basin. A sharp right turn on to CO 5 will snake you beside the Keystone lodges. Stay on CO 5 for approximately 1.5 miles, and park in a dirt pullout on the left side of the road. Crags will have been visible from the moment you pass the lodges, and the creek will be nearby and on the right. The key is to find the pullout on the left as you head East. If you come to the FR260 fork, then you have gone too far. There will be a short embankment at the pullout and room for six or eight cars. Pick up a trail through the woods, on top of the embankment. This will take you up hill for 10 minutes or less to a short talus field and the trail will continue to the left where you will cross a small rock slide. Continue on the trail for another minute or so, and you will run right into the Rock.
Wear shoes that are good for hiking a steep trail.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Haus Rock:
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now is the left of two routes that ascend the largest expanse of stone on the Haus Rock slab. It's one of the better routes at Haus Rock. Begin on some white rock just right of the wide, angling crack and follow the line of clips up and left. It's easiest to move slightly left at the last bolt, then hand traverse the lip to the anchors.A toprope can be easily set up by scrambling up the left side of the rock....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Hey Pat. Hey Matt. For the record, Crystal Ball on Haus Rock is generaly considered about 12a or b. As Pat said, there is a guide on this "small" area. It is not really much of a destination just because of the size. The rock quality is decent though and it sits at about 10,000 ft. so it is cool. This is the Montezuma area described in High Country Crags. Mountain Outfitters in Breckenridge usually has a copy. This area is pretty hard to find, especially without the guide. Pat has put up a few routes since the guide was published, the best of which are the 8 and 9 on the back slabs of Haus.
We climbed at Haus Rock on the w/e and were very impressed! It was hard to find and would be easier to find if you replace " You reach the rock by the right fork on the main trail" with "You reach the rock by the LEFT fork on the main trail" in the 2nd paragraph of Patrick Thompson's entry on 6/22/02. There is a small cairn - you head slightly up and across a small talus field . If you reach a boulder with 2 bolted lines on it you have missed the fork/cairn and gone too far up the main trail..
I found the directions to the main parking area a little obscure. This may help out... Exit US 6 as if you were to park in the dirt parking lots at River Run Village. Turn immediately left onto Gondola Road, which parallels US 6. This soon ends at Montezuma Road. Turn right onto Montezuma Road. Follow it up the canyon. After a long straightaway, the road turns right, then back left. The parking area is on the left hand side of the road, just before a sign that warns of a 20 mph left turn. From the exit off of US 6, the parking area is 1.5 miles.
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