Fun, right-facing corner with great gear. Stem, layback, jam your way up to a crux move as the corner leans right. The corner pinches at this point for a move and then there is a great jam, pull around a small bulge on excellent holds and you are home free.
Location
To reach Zanzibar, climb either Ski Pole or Two Ears (recommended) to the large ledge at the base of the dihedral (60m rope).
Two Ears (5.7) starts right behind a large pine tree at the base and works up broken rock to a series of cracks (2 pins) and veers up and right after about 90 feet. Find the big ledge and Zanzibar is right above you.
Walk off to the west, somewhat steep and loose. After descending for a couple of hundred feet, keep an eye out for a small trail up through broken rock on your left. Go up and over a small shoulder and you will see your packs down by the big pine. You will pass beneath a couple of sport routes, including Nickels and Dimes, 8 bolts, 10c.
Protection
Small to medium cams, medium nuts, one big Camalot #3 or #3.5 works up high. There are two bolts at the top, but they are for routes to the right and would leave you in a semi-hanging stance. Better to build your anchor on top and find a comfortable seat for the belay.
By Jay Knower Administrator Aug 6, 2007 rating: 5.8
This is one of the best 5.8 pitches I have ever done. It's never desperate, but always thought-provoking, and the techniques required are varied. Laybacks, finger jams, slab moves, mantles...this pitch has it all.
By Spinalflow From: Salt Lake City , Utah Sep 14, 2007 rating: 5.8
Too Much Fun! Definitely a classic! Good thing there is a 30 min hike up the boulder field or this climb would be way to popular.
By Jeff Stephens From: Carbondale, CO Sep 10, 2008 rating: 5.8
Rapping the route, and then down Two Ears, will minimize erosion on that crappy descent path. I think it's preferable, unless of course there are parties on the routes. I saw a small but hardy squirrel run down the crux headfirst.
This dihedral is the best continuous feature, and features more hand jams, than any other on Independence Pass.
Weller Slab
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