BETA PHOTO: This picture was taken right after we got off rapp...
Description
Directly opposite the trail where it meets the rock. There will most likely be someone on it! Very popular route and it's as good as it looks from the ground. Varied climbing past 10 well positioned bolts gains a ledge with 2 bolts. Nothing too strenuous but a lot of fun. You will need 2 ropes to get down!
Eds. You can identify the route, left of the large trees, with a rightward pointing flake at about 6 bolts up. You can continue with Otis 5.11a, 9 bolts for 2nd pitch & going left an 11c for a 3rd pitch.
Finest sport 10a in Colorado, if you do the second pitch 11a you need draws for 10 bolts and 2 anchors (not 7 bolts as listed in the guide. There is also a third pitch at 11c which requires three small stoppers or TCUs.
Long sport climb with fun moves. Slab to undercling to face moves. I rappelled with a 70m rope, but advise two 60m ropes because one 70m rope was barely long enough. Worth doing again.
Wow, the best sport .10a in the state. Don't know about that but I do know that I end up doing this route just about every time I go to the Monitor. Mostly 5.8 with a couple thinker moves, well bolted, scenic belay ledge to watch the sun go down over the Pass. My 70m gets me down no problem; with a 60 I rap (don't lower!) and downclimb the bushy ledges up and left.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Jun 2, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Love this route, do it everytime I'm in the area. IMHO this one gets all the stars. As mentioned previously, a rap with a 60m gets you back on safe ground.
Great route. To the poster above me, I think you meant to say a rap with 2 60m ropes gets you down safe. Rapping with 1 60m rope leaves you right around the 2nd bolt on the way down.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Jul 5, 2006 rating: 5.10a
I wouldn't lower off a 60m, but I have climbed this route several times, and the first time I rapped with 2 60m and every time since then I have rapped with 1 60m, and it has gotten me way closer than the 2nd bolt. If you're unsure, rap with 2 60m ropes. I think the problem may be that I'm 195lbs and get a lot of stretch.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Jun 3, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I would like to somewhat rescind my previous comments. You can't get to the ground with a 60m, but you can get to a ledge that has a short 3rd class scramble off. Sorry for any confusion.
This was a good climb and solid 10 the way up. We used 1 rope to rap with and it was not a big deal. Make sure you tie the ends of the rope if you only use 1 rope and have no problem down climbing about 10 feet.
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