From where the trail meets the rock, turn left and walk uphill past most of the routes and to a a left facing corner, just left of the steepest section of rock at the crag. The climb is just left of the left-facing corner. There is a second pitch - 10 bolts, 11b which I have not climbed.
This is a really fun well-bolted climb with a nice finish. Definitely worth doing. I'm not sure about the length, a 60m rope is fine and I'm guessing that a 50m should be OK too, but you might want to tie a knot in the end.
Addendum from Wendie: P2 fun, too (11c) - the crux is getting to the ledge at the anchor. Be careful if you do the 2nd pitch - not very well traveled, so lots of crumbly lichen growing on it. If you choose to go right to get to the ledge for the anchor, BE VERY CAREFUL - the rock is really broken there & much of it will fall onto your belayer or climbers below.
If you string 2 pitches together, you need 2 ropes or 2 rappels.
Super Route! Very fun & properly rated (much easier than the 10a to the left of it)! The 2nd pitch is really fun, too (11c) - the crux is getting to the ledge at the anchor. Be careful if you do the 2nd pitch - not very well traveled, so lots of crumbly lichen growing on it. If you choose to go right to get to the ledge for the anchor, BE VERY CAREFUL - the rock is really broken there & much of it will fall onto your belayer or climbers below. Well worth climbing, though. You can even string the 2 pitches together (20 draws), if you're leading 11s. Forgot to mention that if you string the 2 pitches together, you either need 2 ropes or 2 rappels....
Um, the 2nd pitch crux is a bolted crack, which gives it up rather more easily than .11c if you know how to put your hands in the crack like they used ta back in the days before people drilled next to hand cracks.
Excellent, fun pitch nonetheless; you may descend with 1 60m rope via the 1st pitch raps if you're careful near the ground.
By Jake Wyatt From: Longmont, CO Aug 11, 2004 Gear Alert
Some of the nuts on the coldshuts are loose (including the left shut at the p1 anchor), so be prepared to hand-tighten them as you go.
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