From the point where the trail intersects the wall, hike left along the wall passing the leaning tree. Just after the tree and just before the obvious trad crack is a bolted line that runs up on slabby but excellent yellowish rock. Clean solid climbing can be had if you don't get jammed up behind the queue.
The start is a bit tricky, it feels like your 'cheating' to keep the moves below 5.10 (i.e. traversing from the left). After that it gets much better. The 10d to the right (Slip Not) is definitely worth setting up as a toprope from this climb, if you don't feel like leading it.
Agree that if you want the 9+ start, you have to start left, then traverse to the first bolt. Be careful if you choose the direct start, since the 1st bolt is a bit high off the ground & the feet aren't great. The rest is really fun - definite 9+.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Jun 2, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Sliver Queen makes a great linkup with this route. Fun!
By D's Nutz From: Frisco, CO Jul 16, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I enjoyed this climb. This route does not look like a 5.10a but it is deceiving. All the holds are in the right spot. I agree with the tricky moves at the start.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Aug 6, 2007 rating: 5.10a
After climbing this route for the second time, I think that if you do not traverse in the initial move is closer to 10b. Just my opinion I found it very balancy and had to get my left leg up off a terrible 2 finger hold above. This is really just a note for fledgling 5.9 leaders, on the positive side with a good spot it's a pretty safe fall.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Aug 27, 2007 rating: 5.10a
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