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Monitor Rock
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Below Monitor Rock 
Bird's Nest, The 
Boulder Wall 
Butt Wall 
East Face aka Clairabell Mine Wall 
Endless Wall 
Iron Side Wall 
Iron Stone Wall 
Summit Dome 
Trailhead Wall 

Monitor Rock 


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Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 31, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Taken from the West parking area

Description 

Monitor is nice granite rock with virtually no approach and a good West face where most of the climbing can be found. Certainly by now there are close to 60 routes to choose from, sport and trad. Many are one pitch, some are several. While situated in an alpine setting, the granite is still excellent and the climbing interesting. Worth a day shot if you are heading to Independence Pass for several days. Importantly, since Monitor Rock is at lower elevation than Independence Pass, it is possible to extend the climbing season by a month or so. To keep things organized, the numbering of routes will start on the right and proceed uphill with increasing number. By this scheme, where the approach trail meets the rock, the sport route "Rad Lad" will be # 31. Presently, the only published data that I have found is Lance Hadfield's mini-guide in R&I (#74, August 1996, pp 102-105), and I will follow his numbering as much as possible allowing for new routes where this seems obvious. You will find routes from 5.7 trad to moderate 5.12 sport with numerous 5.10 and 5.11 to be had. The sun exposure is usually excellent.


Getting There 

From most points East you will be taking Colo 82 (off US 24 and between Leadville and Buena Vista) West past Twin Lakes and the reservoir. Several miles further you will come the Mount Elbert Lodge and B&B which can offer great lodgings for those in need and with the foresight to reserve a room. Monitor Rock is several hundred feet West of the lodge and on the right. Parking is just off the shoulder. For those in need, there is a great German restaurant in Twin Lakes that serves loads of imported German beers and terrific bratwurst.


More Info 

Eds. In addition to Lance Hadfield's Rock & Ice mini-guide (#74, August 1996, pp 102-105), there is a guidebook, Independence Pass Rock II $32.99, on the Aspen area climbs by Tom Perkins which includes Monitor Rock. It is available in the bookstore in Leadville. There was a paper guide published through the Aspen Climibing Guides. Aspenclimbingguides.com may also provide more information.


Miscellaneous 

Eds. If you are coming from the Leadville side & need coffee, bakery goods, or wireless internet, the Provin' Grounds Coffee Shop (508 Main St.) may have what you need.

The bookstore just north has guidebooks to the area & the Arkansas Valley.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Monitor Rock:
The Nose   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II   Butt Wall
Little Flatulence   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch   Butt Wall
Trooper Traverse   5.8 PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   Trailhead Wall
One Stick or Two   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   East Face aka Clairabell Mi...
Left Cheek   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Butt Wall
Prospector   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch   Iron Side Wall
Grave Line   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch   Boulder Wall
Squid Kid   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch   Trailhead Wall
Wild Flower   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Endless Wall
Matillda   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Butt Wall
The Maze   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Endless Wall
Master Blaster   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   East Face aka Clairabell Mi...
Twin Flakes   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Iron Side Wall
Mother Lode   5.10     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350 feet   Trailhead Wall
Slip...Not!   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch   Boulder Wall
Silver Dollar   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Iron Side Wall
Clairabell   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   East Face aka Clairabell Mi...
Last Chance   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 125 feet   Iron Side Wall
Glory Hole   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Iron Side Wall
Browse More Classics in Monitor Rock

Featured Route For Monitor Rock
This picture was taken right after we got off rappel.  I have placed an X where the crux section was for me.

Squid Kid 5.10a  CO : Independence Pass : ... : Trailhead Wall
Directly opposite the trail where it meets the rock. There will most likely be someone on it! Very popular route and it's as good as it looks from the ground. Varied climbing past 10 well positioned bolts gains a ledge with 2 bolts. Nothing too strenuous but a lot of fun. You will need 2 ropes to get down!Eds. You can identify the route, left of the large trees, with a rightward pointing flake at about 6 bolts up. You can continue with Otis 5.11a, 9 bolts for 2nd pitch & goin...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Monitor Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Bear posting up on the approach.

Bear posting up on the approach.

We saw this deer dying the week before, next time I'll call a ranger.

We saw this deer dying the week before, next time ...

This is an attempt at giving general locations for some of the separate areas of Monitor Rock.  Perhaps it may help.

BETA PHOTO: This is an attempt at giving general locations for...

Rasta Ledge.

Rasta Ledge.

Rasta Ledge.

Rasta Ledge.

We made it to the top.

We made it to the top.

Monitor Rock at sunset.

Monitor Rock at sunset.


Comments on Monitor Rock Add Comment
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By Edward Jenner
Apr 8, 2002

IMHO a worthy rock for sport climbing. The rock is solid and finger friendly. Aspen Climbing Guides LLC publishes a 1-page guide which has all the current routes listed.

By Wendie
Jul 1, 2002

Great area, with something for everyone - sport, trad, beginners, etc. Don't forget to do the Butt Wall (no routes described here) - around the right prow. There are great warm-ups there or routes for beginning leaders. Most of them have a 2nd trad pitch, though the first pitches are all sport. Easy to get to & all routes are well bolted!

By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
May 3, 2006

Spotted a few mountain goats on the southeast face a couple weeks ago showing the humans how it's done.

By John Peterson
Jul 11, 2007

Found: watch at the base of the Nose. Drop me an email if it's yours. jpeterson@western.edu

By 1Eric Rhicard
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 30, 2009

Cool cliff with a ton of sport climbing! Wish the rain hadn't been so persistent and the fishing so good. I would have liked to do more climbs. Love the rock texture and the easy approach.

By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Jun 27, 2010

What are the routes on the overhanging wall? About 500 ft to the left of Squid Kid. A lot of chalk and a bulge at the top?

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2010

The new edition of the Stewart Green Colorado guide includes Monitor Rock.