This is the obvious inset open book to obtuse corner on the left side of the Grotto Wall, highly visible from the parking lot (yes, you will draw a crowd of slack-jawed Bago warriors during the summer months) and highly classic.
Scramble up on the ledge and get a load of this crack! Incut features on the quartzy right wall and sinker jams in the ever-steepening crack take you to a final, pumpy section of finger locks before you gain the ledge (10a). Belay here at bolts and chains, or if you have a 70-meter rope continue into pitch 2.
Move up the bizarre corner above the ledge past a stemmy section, then trend right on an undercut flake (Metolius 2 and 3 TCU's I think), passing a couple of pins to get out to a bolt protecting the bouldery, powerful crux (11+). A second bolt above this takes you through steep but easier terrain with positive grips. Surmount a final, easy roof to reach a double-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall. Double-rope rap from here (you may make it down with a 70-meter cord) or top out on slabs.
The second pitch can be reduced to 10+ by heading left out of the obtuse corner then arcing back right above the first bolt to join the easier finishing section.
Protection
Standard rack with lots of hand and finger-sized cams and mid-large stoppers.
Great crack climb. Can be a little tricky if it's at the upper end of your ability. My partner led it and left no pro when he moved left, then traversed back right, avoiding the 11+ crux if you climb straight up. I couldn't see his lead, as it was up and over, and got pumped when I tried to follow straight up. I eventually moved left and back right as well, which definitely put me at risk of a serious pendulum had I come off the rock. So, the leader may want to stick that one extra piece of pro in there...
We didn't do the second pitch, but the first pitch is an absolute must if you visit this area. There are chains at the ledge at the top of the first pitch.
Nice climb. I didn't know about the stemming and didn't figure it out up there either. Instead, I laybacked the upper section and ran it out 10-12 feet above the rest stance and took a nice 30 footer onto a yellow Alien. I rested and then went up and ran it out to the top, pumped out of my mind. Next time I do it I'll definitely try the stemming method.
For the direct second pitch, I remember the small cams mentioned after the stemming; then a larger cam, a bolt over the small roof and a pin about ten feet after. Nice, challenging, finish to good climb; I think it protects better than the alternate finish, for both the leader and the second.
By dbyte From: Carbondale, CO Jun 30, 2008 rating: 5.10a
The 1st pitch is mega-classic, probably the best single ropelength I've done since moving to CO. Every placement is bomber & all are set from good stances.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
