Jensy McNamara following the classic 2nd pitch of ...
Description
Unless you're a movie star, ski bum or coke addict, the best thing going in the Aspen area is definitely Independence Pass. An often overlooked, but ultra-worthy, granite area, East of town off the super-steep CO Highway 82. The area includes crags between Aspen & Twin Lakes.
The Pass is also historic, offering some of Colorado's earlier forays onto steep (5.7) rock, a handful of Henry Barber and Lynn Hill testpieces, from the Golden Era of free climbing, and some of Colorado's first rappel-bolted sport routes.
While route activity has dwindled as of late, the Pass continues to thrive as an adventure bouldering area, with plenty of potential for those willing to do a bit of exploring. The highway conveniently bisects most of the granite in the canyon, so most crags are never more than 1-20 minutes from the road.
The Grotto Wall with its landmark route Cryogenics Corner is a great place to get acquainted with Pass rock, a sometimes confounding mixture of compact granite and metamorphized gneiss. Because it's so featured, rock at the Pass lends itself to some very overhanging climbing not typically associated with granite, especially on the left side of the Grotto Wall and at Wild Rock.
Though the Pass is considered a summer area because of its elevation (9,000-11,000 feet), the walls mostly face south and can become blisteringly hot under the high-altitude sun. With some planning, you can stay in the shade all day; or if you're lucky, some clouds will roll in and cool things off.
The road is generally closed a few miles above Aspen from late October through mid-May due to heavy snows. If you think the rock might be dry, you can park down low at the gate and bike up the road, making for a true multi-sport experience.
The beauty of the Pass lies in its variety. I would say there is a nearly perfect 50/50 split between trad and sport climbing, and many of the "sport" climbs require that you place gear anyway. To boot, there is some great bouldering up here. John Sherman's "The Ineditable" being perhaps the most famous (and best) problem on the Pass.
While the Grotto Wall offers the highest concentration of routes, most of the crags are more modest in size, typically offering between 5-10 routes each. Thusly, you can visit two or three crags in one day and get tons of climbing in.
The crags at Independence Pass are arrayed along Colorado 82 west of Aspen en route to the Pass itself at 12,000 feet. The lowest area is the Difficult Cliff while the highest area is Instant Karma Cliff, located near the summit of the divide.
The vast majority of the crags are on the left (South) side of the road as you drive up the pass, while Lincoln Creek, a valley branching off to the Southeast from the main highway, offers good climbing as well.
Another worthy tick is Monitor Rock on the East (Twin Lakes) side of the pass.
Guidebook
Independence PassRock Climbing II by Tom Perkins, 2006 provides good descriptions. $32.99.
Climbing Stores
The Trailhead, 707 Hwy 24 N, Buena Vista, 719.395.8001. www.thetrailheadco.com.
This is certainly one of Colorado's great boulder problems, both for its position on the flat face of a mammoth boulder and the purity of the line.The Ineditable climbs the southwest face of a large, pointy boulder in the boulder field at the Grotto Wall. Park in the big pull-out and follow a trail heading down canyon, then slightly south back toward the road, to reach the Ineditable Boulder (it's the biggest boulder in the area and hard to miss)...[more]
Monitor Rock is well worth a visit. The south side has Flatiron-esque trad routes (5.easy, 500') that are ideal for moonlight ascents and the West face has a slew of single pitch sport on great rock--very similar to Boulder Canyon routes. Fantastic scenery and proximal hot springs make for a killer weekend.
By Frances Fierst Administrator From: Denver, CO Jul 18, 2003
I just climbed here for the first time yesterday. What a beautiful place. Great rock, short approaches, and a great variety of climbing. The high alpine feel of the area rivals Lumpy Ridge. This is a great destination to beat the heat and crowds of the Front Range. There is also a lot of new route potential for anyone who will take the time and effort to clean and bolt new lines.
The new guide by Tom Perkins, Independence Pass Rock Climbing is a great resource. The book is laid out well, and it has nice photos and topos. There is also a great website www.aspenclimbingguides.com to supplement the book.
Independence Pass
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