Taylor Canyon (known by the locals as Harmels, for the ranch near the First Buttress) is a favorite in and around Crested Butte. The climbing is mostly traditional. Routes are usually under three pitches, but there are a lot of them of that length as well as single pitch. The rock is high quality granite in most places. There is a Kayak/Raft/Climbing guide shop also right next to the the First Buttress. A number of the climbs are runout and the grades are known to be pretty stiff (some might say sand-bagged). Consider that Otto's Route on Independance Monument is a "5.8" and it has chopped steps, while Left Hand Crack is a "5.8+" and I defy anyone to get such an awkward move on the first try.
Getting There
From Gunnison, go north on highway 135 for about 10 miles. At the small town of Almont, turn right and head up toward Taylor resevoir. After another ten miles or so, you will come to Harmels Ranch. Immediatly after this will be a climbing/kyaking guiding outfit. The First Buttress is obvious (very). Park on your left just after the Kayak outfit. Note, you will cross the Taylor river once, if you pass Harmels ranch and then cross the river again, you have gone too far...
A superb 3 pitch route on the front face of Harmels at the far left side of the big roof. Standard approach is by traversing in from the left off of the Sun Deck past Whiskey crack. This eliminates the 10c direct start through the roof and starts with the stellar 9+ finger crack. But for the full effect go direct. X marks the spot through the roof. Initial climbing is nearly un-protected and a little tricky up to the roof. (note this is not the s...[more]
F.Y.I. Sharp End Publishing will soon be releasing a Guide book to the Taylor Canyon / Crested Butte area.The guide is authored by long time Gunny/Butte local Leo Malloy. Leo is a good man and his guide should prove to be fairly comprehensive and well thought out. Look for it if you are at all interested in this wonderfull cragging area.
Taylor Canyon offers 4 star rock quality and many great routes. Left Hand is one of the hardest and best 5.8's anywhere, and it has humbled even 5.12 crack climbers. Flaring, overhung offwidth cracks are usually not a 5.8 quality. There are a ton of trad climbs and several sport routes further up the road past the second buttress. Most routes range from 5.7 - 5.12. A great place to spend a few days climbing.
According to Leo the new guidebook will be out this spring (2006). It will be quite comprehensive - it will include the Spring Creek area and other Gunnison crags. I'll ask him for more details.
By Lee Jenkins From: Buena Vista, Colorado Jun 27, 2006
Any more news on the guidebook? If available where can it be found? I live in Buena Vista.
I think it is one of the best local crags in the state. Certainly worth a visit if you're around or even near Gunnison or Crested Butte. If it's a worth a thing I had a great time climbing here in 1980/81 as a very young decadent climbing youth.
Guide book is in Guide Book is good! I was amazed how many routes there are now. You Gunny-Bunners and Butte-taters have been busy! Leo, great job on a huge project! philo
Scott call Sharp End directly and ask. Their number is on the website. I snagged the last copy Neptune's had and showed it to Boulder Mountaineering so they would order some asap. Scott do you remember that you are who introduced Jim Nigro and I all those years ago? What a long strange trip it's been....
Phil, Thanks for the info. I didn't remember about introducing you to Jim. He and I first met through Jon Ake when we did the Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle on the 4th of July 1976 (the Bicentennial). Jon sprained his ankle on the approach and so Jim and I swapped leads on that very cool climb....the bond of the rope, it can last for a long time!
These words and photos bring back such good memories!!!! First ascents-first leads-great friends-really makes me want to drive out and tie in on Whiskey Crack or Oh Mama Mama!!!
Hey Chris, while you're at it, maybe you could submit Whiskey, no one else has (hint, hint Phil) and I am too far removed and too out of touch with the new equipment to post up a safe entry.
Taylor Canyon
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