On the right side of the first buttress, almost to the end, is a beautiful right facing dihedral that starts about 30 feet from the ground. Belay from a ledge you can scramble up to, then begin the perfect finger crack dihedral with good gear for abot 20 feet. Pull up and over to the left. You'll be faced with a run-out face (15 feet??) which accepts small dicey gear. I gave it it an "s" only because of this part. The gear is hard to make good. Balance up to a weakness in the blocky roof. If memory serves, it's not too hard from here with good, bigger gear (hand-sized)....
Protection
Nuts and small cams for the corner. Tiny stuff for the face. Bigger (hand-sized?) pieces for the last easier roof.
HI Kirk.Yes I believe the first ascent was Kathy Zaiser and myself in the early to mid eighties. Like Marias Farewell, this was a route put up as a going away present.
By aaron voreis From: Gunnison, CO Sep 15, 2005 rating: 5.10a
Do not hesitate to lead this route. It definately does not warrant an R rating as the face climbing section can be sewn up with good tcus and med-small nuts.
The Upper Wall
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