I was really surprised that no one had submitted this absolutely fabulous Harmels classic. Left Hand Crack might just be one of the best 5.8 cracks on the Western Slope. Many people would argue that LH should be rated 5.9, some would even say 9+ but for two things; 1: Left Hand has always been rated 5.8. and 2: Left Hand has everything you need. Sure, I will grant that it is stiff for the grade but Harmels has always been stoutly rated. And yes it is in your face crack climbing. But if you avoid tunnel vision and make like the Vitruvian Man you will see what all is around you. Most people who struggle or fail on LH do so because they only focus on the six inches of rock in their face. At Harmels there is always more than meets the eye. In the background of first picture under Question of Balance you can see the inverted Vee where Left Hand starts. The start of LH is fun jams, stems and lie backs to get established on the narrow ledge to the left. From this stance, there are two flakes like surf board ends right in front of you. From here also the overhanging crack and dihedral of LH looms above. Lie back the flakes and jam up the crack till your feet are atop the flakes. Repeat the same process of lie back, jam, work feet to stances on left until the angle kicks back to less than vertical. From there work up and left passing the roof on the left and joining the Crystal Staircase finish to the bolted belay stance. The crux is the awkward transition from overhanging crack to less than vert crack. Look for a teeny stem hold way out near the arete behind you to your right. If you are competent with solid gear placements, they can be gotten from stances and any potential air time should be safe. From the bolted station atop LH you can rap and top rope all of the routes on that wall from Tony's Tango to LH. Or you can finish up to the top on a variety of routes. My favorite finish has always been the 'Aqua Dog' 5.9 off width roof.
Protection
It used to be that you would work your way up, sling the flake, slot in a perfect #9 Hex and fire for the top. Now with all those fabulous springy things that are available, you could literally sew this splitter crack up. With modern gear LH would be a fine, early leading experience.
By Caitlin Galt From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 6, 2006 rating: 5.10a
This is definitely rated stiff! Be sure to tape up your right hand, the back of it gets beat up pretty bad. Yeah, it's called left hand, but I think thats cause you only come off the route with your left hand remaining. Fun climb though!
Daniel, once I did the 1st pitch of Air Conditioner and it started pouring, so I traversed over to left hand and down climbed it in the rain. I can't think of any 5.9 crack I would do that on (granted, I did have the crux move extremely wired). The jams are extremely secure, at least for my hands.
The fun way I always used to do it was (see photo above), after the crux, traverse right (unprotected) onto to a sloping slab to the 1st belay of Air Conditioner. This move is reminiscent of turning the corner on the first pitch of the Owl in Boulder Canyon, not hard (5.6/5.7) but would be a nasty smack if you fell on lead. Then continue up the second pitch of Air C. and top out with Aqua Dog. I guess you could call this variation "Left Handed Air Dog". Anyway, it makes for a fun 3 pitch 5.8 (old school) climb.
By Will A. From: Gunnison, CO Oct 29, 2007 rating: 5.8
I love the 5.8 rating. It is a sequence dependent route for sure, and tricky at that. Oldschool ratings are part of the history of the area. 5.8, 5.9, or even 5.10, It is still one of the most classic routes in the Gunnison valley.
So I was leading Left Hand after a LONG time (my first shot lead to a 35ft head first fall - hey I was young and stupid!) and this guy walks up and watches me finish. When I got down he asks - "Do you know what's that rated?" I told him 5.8, but everybody I knew would love to say 5.9. It turns out he was Bob Dickerson, the FA. He rated Left Hand 5.8 because he led it onsight. Anything onsight and hard was 5.8, anything hard that he fell on was 5.9, which is why Air Conditioner is a 5.9 - another Dickerson FA. Jon
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