Gunnison Valley Locals Mark Flis and Legend Robert...
Description
You'll find this gem of a splitter located high up on the left side of the first buttress on the north-facing wall of an obvious, right-facing corner. Scramble up to the base of the route and climb a weird move off the ground towards the corner. Climb 5.8 stemming/jamming to a sloping ledge. Continue on stellar face climbing until you are at the base of the splitter. Enjoy the rest! This route can also be split into two pitches by belaying at the sloping ledge.
Descent: Double rope rap off three cold shuts on the prow(Cigarette .11c) climber's left of the splitter.
Protection
Green Alien to #3 Camalot w/extra #0.75 and #1. Nuts. Draws and slings.
Originally the route finished up the slab half way between the bail-out into Dunn's to the right and the moves out left to the bolts. This was a really excellent and spicy way to top out. I just did this route a month or two ago and we went left to the bolts. Very nice but no where near as edgy as going straight up to the big boulder. All in all, no matter which way you top out this is a fabulous climb!
What a fun little pitch. I've done all three exits. Right into Dunn's the first time I did it with nuts and tri-cams, I think it was my first 5.10 lead. Traversing left to the bolts when they were put in later on (I got cams by then) and up the slab after hearing that was the original line. and up the slab is definitely the crux of the route. Highly recommend this finish over the others.
By Will A. From: Gunnison, CO Dec 16, 2007 rating: 5.10a
One of the most fun climbs at Taylor. Pulling through the last section of crack over the bulge is so good!
The Upper Wall
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