Across the road from Rosy Lane Campground look up. You will see an obvious pinnacle with a 165ft 5.9 splitter up the center that mirrors the Rosy Lane buttress.
Climbs from left to right are:
11+ Ecstacy (5.7R start) bolts and 1 #0.5 Camalot. 1 60m. 9+ PCP crack (5.9+ to the ledge and 10c R to the summit. Trad, 2 60m. 11 Free Base Face (crack start to bolted roof) long pitch. Mixed, 2 60m. 11 Angel Dust Arete (shares start w/ FBF then to arete). Mixed, 2 60m.
All of these routes are very high quality, sustained pitches.
Getting There
Across the road from the Rosy Lane Campground. Park on right side pullout not in the campground.
The tower is indeed called PCP pinnacle, but the route in the picture is actually called "Angel Dust". John Rosholt and I put up this route in the later half of the Seventies. I would consider this a must do Taylor Canyon route of high quality. Just remember the routes on the east side of the Taylor River are invariably looser than the climbs on the west side. So be careful out there.
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