BETA PHOTO: Sun Deck Notice climber on Zig Zag 5.8+ (at leas...
Description
The left side of the first buttress is known as the Sun Deck area and has many interesting and easily accessable climbs on it. Many are accessed from the Sun Deck which can be reached by a walk up on the left side and some 4th class scrambling. This is a favorite hangout for climbers in the 5.10 range since Zig Zag is an exposed 5.9+ lead which then gives access to some harder top-roping possibilities. Also, by leading the easier Jackel, Zig Zag itself can be top-roped. There are also a couple of world class 5.12 test pieces which pull the very impressive roof as well as numerous bouldering problems at the base of Tourist Attraction.
Whiskey Crack is an absolute classic and one of the original Taylor Canyon test pieces. In my day, if you could lead Whiskey Crack you had arrived.The climbing of crux pitch involves steep technical face climbing and thin crack work over small wired pro. The tendency is to try to snug into the v grove for security. But the key is to stay on the outside. This is a stellar route....[more]
In the beta photo, the "straight-up" crack to the right of the climber is Whiskey Crack and the finger crack that leans first right and then left is Oh Mamma Mamma.
Sun Deck
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