FOUR bolts! 4 BOLTS? What the ph-uck do you mean FOUR BOLTS? I know its been since the last century that I was there but I do not recall that many BOLTS. What gives Local ethics or my memory?
By Allen Hill From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine May 4, 2007
Phil, There were always four bolts on it. Hangerless as I recall, but four of them for sure. I climbed it it several times in the early eighties. I seem to remember Jimmy D. put it up (?).
Paul Hogan and I made the first ascent of this rock back in 1972. Paul was a student at Western State and I worked for Outward Bound in Lake City. Paul told me about this cool pinnacle that Harvey Carter had drilled a fixed angle on, but aparently hadn't finished the route. I led the pitch free with only the old drilled army angle for protection. Several decades later I went back to climb it and found those "new" bolts. It was a cool little climb before, well protected for the crux but a little run-out afterward, adding up to a micro-classic. Now it's just another sport climb.
Jello, I was a WSC student from 1975 on and it was our common knowledge that you first climbed this tower which we always called the Lowe Pinnacle. I wrongly thought that you had done it with Mike Weiss so it is good to set the record straight. I had NO idea you led it with only a single drilled anchor for pro. BRRRRurly! Thinking about that made my privates turtle up. Cheers to you and all the wild, wild stuff you climbed including this little tower.
On the black and white shots I just submitted, those who know Jimmy Newberry can see that he is muttering "Desperate!!!", hence the direct aid.
By Will Anglin From: Gunnison, CO Jun 27, 2008 rating: 5.10c
It really is pretty well protected with just the drilled angle. If you like it spicy do it up in the style of the first ascent, really gives you an appreciation for what these guys were doing back in the day without newest Five Sportiva shoes velcro-zip-laced to their footsies :)
Honestly, I'm such a neophyte at this new fangled rating thing that anything over 5.10 is/was basically 5.impossible for me.
It was definitely an adrenaline dyno move for me. In fact, if you read Bob Dickerson's account in Gunnison Rock of the most bogus rappel he ever did, a double rap off the top of this thing, with one person rapping off each side simultaneously, with no pro but rope friction....that was me in that most dubious adventure!
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