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Little Finger aka Penis Rock Area
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Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face 
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Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face 

5.10c

   

FA: Jeff Lowe & Paul Hogan, 1972.
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 20 feet
Views: 500 page views

Submitted By: John Peterson on Apr 8, 2007


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The Ant atop the mighty phallus


Description 

The obvious 4 bolt line on the rock. A summit that every Gunny climber must attain.


Location 

The most obvious route at Hartman's.


Protection 

Bolts.



Add Photo Photos of Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face
Looking down toward Gunny

Looking down toward Gunny

Early ascent by Tom Pulaski and Jimmy Newberry (1976)  Notice Tom's new Kletter shoes and Jimmy's green edging Chouinards!

Early ascent by Tom Pulaski and Jimmy Newberry (19...


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By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
May 4, 2007

FOUR bolts! 4 BOLTS? What the ph-uck do you mean FOUR BOLTS?
I know its been since the last century that I was there but I do not recall that many BOLTS. What gives Local ethics or my memory?

By Allen Hill
From: Pine, Colorado
May 4, 2007

Phil,
There were always four bolts on it. Hangerless as I recall, but four of them for sure. I climbed it it several times in the early eighties. I seem to remember Jimmy D. put it up (?).

By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
May 16, 2007

Thanx Allen for jogging my memory. They were just studs back then weren't they.

By Jello
Jun 11, 2007

Paul Hogan and I made the first ascent of this rock back in 1972. Paul was a student at Western State and I worked for Outward Bound in Lake City. Paul told me about this cool pinnacle that Harvey Carter had drilled a fixed angle on, but aparently hadn't finished the route. I led the pitch free with only the old drilled army angle for protection. Several decades later I went back to climb it and found those "new" bolts. It was a cool little climb before, well protected for the crux but a little run-out afterward, adding up to a micro-classic. Now it's just another sport climb.

By the way, I called the tower the Little Finger.

-Jeff Lowe

By phil broscovak
From: Boo-older, Co.
Jun 11, 2007

Jello, I was a WSC student from 1975 on and it was our common knowledge that you first climbed this tower which we always called the Lowe Pinnacle. I wrongly thought that you had done it with Mike Weiss so it is good to set the record straight. I had NO idea you led it with only a single drilled anchor for pro. BRRRRurly! Thinking about that made my privates turtle up. Cheers to you and all the wild, wild stuff you climbed including this little tower.

By Scott M. Mossman
Jul 27, 2007
rating: 5.10a

On the black and white shots I just submitted, those who know Jimmy Newberry can see that he is muttering "Desperate!!!", hence the direct aid.

By Will A.
From: Gunnison, CO
Jun 27, 2008

It really is pretty well protected with just the drilled angle. If you like it spicy do it up in the style of the first ascent, really gives you an appreciation for what these guys were doing back in the day without newest Five Sportiva shoes velcro-zip-laced to their footsies :)