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Beginner's Slab Best Crack Wall Bouldering Area Budda's Slab Buddha's Belly Wall Candy Man Boulder, The Cut the Rope Wall Duffy's Aretes Fish Head Boulder Grey Lightning Groove Rock Leap of Faith area Little Finger aka Penis Rock Area Quarter Inch Master Area Resistance Wall Son of Sam Area Station 3 Super Slabs Supermodel Area Teenage Wasteland Tiger Wall Water Groove Area (top of Kill Hill) White Lightning Y Crack Boulder
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DescriptionLiving in Gunnnison CO I have noticed a peculiar absence of information on climbing in this area. The stellar climbing is often overshadowed by, of course, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Located four miles outside of Gunnison Hartmans Rocks is a great area for those interested in a multi-sport environment. It is a multi-use area with miles of off-road and mountain bike trails, free camping, and of course great rock climbing. The rock is a granite often compared to J-tree, bomber in most areas and loose and crumbly in others. All types of climbing can be done here, however it has mostly bolted routes(5.5-5.12+), great bouldering in the V-easy to V-hard range, with a few trad cracks thrown in for good measure. Most routes can be accessed from the parking areas of the crags with anchors for top-ropes too. Some classics include Budhas Belly, Tiger Stripe wall, and SuperSlabs. The climbing community has been putting up routes here for years but new oppotunity abounds, if you see a line you want to try, if it can't go clean, bolting is not frowned upon. Ammenities can be found in Gunnison ranging from a KOA campground to restaurants and even a hospital! lol Rock and Roll Sports in Gunny is a great place for beta (free climbing guide), and local climbers are friendly and a great source for info. Getting ThereGunnison is located on Route 50 between Salida and Montrose. Heading west out of town on Route 50 (Tomichi) you will see a sign for Hartmans Rocks (if you cross a bridge you've gone too far.) The KOA campground is shortly on the right and after about 2 miles you will see the entrance to the park on the right. Stay on the dirt road going up a heavily washboarded hill. Once at the top make your second left and the crags are located on the left (east) side of the road. There are numerous different areas to climb at, the first prominent pulloff on the left being the Budhas Belly area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hartman Rocks:
Ferringy 5.7 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Beginner's Slab
Keating Beating 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet Super Slabs
Buddha's Belly 5.10 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Buddha's Belly Wall
Laughing Buddha 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Buddha's Belly Wall
Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet Little Finger aka Penis Roc...
Featured Route For Hartman Rocks
Fate is in Heaven 5.13d CO : Gunnison : ... : Station 3
A difficult yet very high quality climb. 5 bolts of 30degree overhung granite to a boulder-like topout. Pinches, crimps, slopers, underclings, mantles, crazy tension moves, dynos, it's all here. Bring your 'A' game!Clipping the first bolt is easy, then climb a long V9 boulder problem to a crux dynamic move at the lip. Pull the lip and climb unprotected easy 5th class slab to the chains. It is not recommended to lower from the chains, that would k...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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