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Hartman Rocks

Submitted By: Terry Fisher on Jul 27, 2002
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Views: 13,931 page views

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Sunset at Hartmans.


Description 

Living in Gunnnison CO I have noticed a peculiar absence of information on climbing in this area. The stellar climbing is often overshadowed by, of course, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Located four miles outside of Gunnison Hartmans Rocks is a great area for those interested in a multi-sport environment. It is a multi-use area with miles of off-road and mountain bike trails, free camping, and of course great rock climbing. The rock is a granite often compared to J-tree, bomber in most areas and loose and crumbly in others. All types of climbing can be done here, however it has mostly bolted routes(5.5-5.12+), great bouldering in the V-easy to V-hard range, with a few trad cracks thrown in for good measure. Most routes can be accessed from the parking areas of the crags with anchors for top-ropes too. Some classics include Budhas Belly, Tiger Stripe wall, and SuperSlabs. The climbing community has been putting up routes here for years but new oppotunity abounds, if you see a line you want to try, if it can't go clean, bolting is not frowned upon. Ammenities can be found in Gunnison ranging from a KOA campground to restaurants and even a hospital! lol Rock and Roll Sports in Gunny is a great place for beta (free climbing guide), and local climbers are friendly and a great source for info.


Getting There 

Gunnison is located on Route 50 between Salida and Montrose. Heading west out of town on Route 50 (Tomichi) you will see a sign for Hartmans Rocks (if you cross a bridge you've gone too far.) The KOA campground is shortly on the right and after about 2 miles you will see the entrance to the park on the right. Stay on the dirt road going up a heavily washboarded hill. Once at the top make your second left and the crags are located on the left (east) side of the road. There are numerous different areas to climb at, the first prominent pulloff on the left being the Budhas Belly area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hartman Rocks:
Ferringy   5.7     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Beginner's Slab
Keating Beating   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Super Slabs
Buddha's Belly   5.10     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Buddha's Belly Wall
Laughing Buddha   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Buddha's Belly Wall
Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet   Little Finger aka Penis Roc...
Browse More Classics in Hartman Rocks

Featured Route For Hartman Rocks
Fate is in Heaven.

Fate is in Heaven 5.13d  CO : Gunnison : ... : Station 3
A difficult yet very high quality climb. 5 bolts of 30degree overhung granite to a boulder-like topout. Pinches, crimps, slopers, underclings, mantles, crazy tension moves, dynos, it's all here. Bring your 'A' game!Clipping the first bolt is easy, then climb a long V9 boulder problem to a crux dynamic move at the lip. Pull the lip and climb unprotected easy 5th class slab to the chains. It is not recommended to lower from the chains, that would k...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Hartman Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Bouldering somewhere up there (1976), anyone know where?

Bouldering somewhere up there (1976), anyone know ...

Jon Scott on the Donkey Head boulder, that also has another name I can't remember.

Jon Scott on the Donkey Head boulder, that also ha...

Brittney Jeck on the Tiger Wall.

Brittney Jeck on the Tiger Wall.

Alec Solimeo on a project on the End of Yer Rope boulder.

Alec Solimeo on a project on the End of Yer Rope b...

Tim Foulkes, WSC alumni, points out a 5.13 crack @ Hartmans, that possibly has never been redpointed. This is on the Automart rock.

Tim Foulkes, WSC alumni, points out a 5.13 crack @...

The legendary Quinessential Pinnacle, also known as Penis Rock.

The legendary Quinessential Pinnacle, also known a...

Climbing on the left side of the Best Crack Wall. An easy 5.5 solo. <br /><br />Photo taken by: Mike Brenneman aka Big Mike.

Climbing on the left side of the Best Crack Wall. ...

Classic Hartmans highball.

Classic Hartmans highball.

Another classic highball.

Another classic highball.

A hunk of rock.

A hunk of rock.


Comments on Hartman Rocks Add Comment
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By Terry Fisher
From: Boulder
Jul 28, 2002

Most of the information that I have comes from a free guide that can be found at Rock n Roll sports in Gunnison. If any information is incorrect or lacking please feel free to change or add in anyway.

By Terry Fisher
From: Boulder
Aug 26, 2002

OOPS!!!! I have referred on several ocasions to "Hell Hill" which is the first big hill you come too after turning into the park, my apologies the actual name is "Kill Hill" for those of you who care anyway lol.

By Chris Cavallaro
May 25, 2004

LAKE CITY: I am hoping to ask about any new routes in the area of Lake City. I used to live in the area for years, and know how to get to Gods Crag from directions on stoneseeker.com. I am taking a trip to Lake city this weekend, and I'm bringing some new climbers.

Are there any new areas you could advise me on that would have softer climbs? Are there any new 5.8-5.11 climbs near Gods Crag?

Any information much appreciated!

By MB
Sep 19, 2005

Great place to climb!!! just went there last weekend and had an awesome time.. great bouldering.. also you can camp right next to the rocks where you climb so its real nice... also many many rocks there to do and could easily spend a week there climbing, also its right outside of Gunnison so it's real quick to the food and what-not

By Joseph Stover
From: Chistchurch, New Zealand
May 4, 2006

Is there any way to get some more beta on this and close by areas? What about guide books? I am specifically interested in sport 5.7-5.11 and bouldering V0-V6. Does anyone have some digital Topos or any other info?

By John Peterson
Jun 14, 2006

The best guide (at the moment) for this area is Cowan's guide, available at Rock and Roll. I'm taking all of my information from that as I add routes. Unfortunately this guide doesn't have topos, and the route descriptions don't always line up so some of the routes will probably be misnamed. Sorry.

If you're climbing in Gunny, your first stop should be Rock and Roll. You'll get expert advice, find any gear you may need, and get beta on crags that aren't listed in any guide. Go there.

By Will Anglin
From: Gunnison, CO
Nov 1, 2007

Pick up the new guidebook at Rock and Roll Sports. First true guide for the area.

By Luke Mehall
May 12, 2009

Hey, y'all be sure to check out 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory, the first 24 hour climbing festival in the west. It will be at Hartmans on the 27th and 28th of June. Check our website at:

http://www.gunnisonriverfestival.com/glory.html

or give me a call 970-943-7053 or email: lmehall@western.edu